National Parks › East › Dry Tortugas
Dry Tortugas National Park
Florida · Established October 26, 1992A brick fortress on a coral island, adrift at the edge of the Gulf
- Area
- 64,701 acres
- Established
- October 26, 1992
- Recreation visits
- 89,355 / yr
- State
- Florida
- Highest point
- Low sandy dunes, only a few feet above sea level
- Lowest point
- Gulf of Mexico and Florida Straits, sea level
Dry Tortugas Weather Forecast
Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (24.629, -82.873). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.
Map of Dry Tortugas National Park
The Park
Some 70 miles west of Key West, where the Florida Keys finally give way to open sea, a scatter of low sandy islands rises from turquoise water. Dry Tortugas National Park is more than 99 percent water, and its seven small keys, coral reefs and seagrass meadows form one of the most remote and unspoiled marine environments in the continental United States. At its heart stands Fort Jefferson, a massive, unfinished brick fortress on Garden Key.
The islands earned their name in 1513, when Juan Ponce de León caught sea turtles here and called them the Tortugas; later sailors added 'Dry' to warn that there was no fresh water. Protected as Fort Jefferson National Monument in 1935, the area became a national park on October 26, 1992. Today it is a haven for nesting seabirds, sea turtles and reef fish, and its reefs are among the healthiest in the Florida Keys.
Geography
The Dry Tortugas lie at the far western end of the Florida Keys, closer to Cuba than to the Florida mainland. The park covers about 100 square miles, almost entirely ocean. Its keys are small and low: Loggerhead Key is the largest at about 64 acres, followed by Garden Key, home to Fort Jefferson, and Bush Key, a seabird nesting ground. Middle, Hospital, Long and East keys are tiny sandy islets that shift and change size with storms.
The islands rise from a shallow platform ringed by coral reefs and cut by deeper channels. Seagrass meadows, sand flats and patch reefs surround the keys, and deeper coral banks lie to the west. The northern and western portions of the park, including the central keys, were designated a 46-square-mile Research Natural Area in 2007, where no fishing or anchoring is allowed.
Access is only by ferry, seaplane or private boat. The park's position between the Gulf of Mexico and the Florida Straits places it along major ocean currents that carry coral larvae, fish and turtles throughout the region.
Landmarks
- Garden Key and Fort JeffersonIslandA 42-acre key almost entirely covered by the massive 19th-century brick fort.
- Bush KeyIslandThe nesting ground for sooty terns and brown noddies, closed to visitors during the breeding season.
- Loggerhead KeyIslandThe park's largest island, crowned by a lighthouse and fringed by coral reefs.
- Dry Tortugas LightAreaA tall brick lighthouse on Loggerhead Key, guiding ships through the dangerous reefs.
- Hospital KeyIslandA tiny key that once held a quarantine hospital for yellow fever patients.
- Middle KeyIslandA shifting sandbar that nearly disappears and reappears with storms and seasons.
Geology
The Dry Tortugas sit near the southwestern edge of the Florida Platform, a vast shelf of carbonate rock built up over nearly 200 million years. Layer upon layer of limestone and dolomite, thousands of meters thick, accumulated here as shallow tropical seas deposited the shells and skeletons of marine organisms.
During the Pleistocene ice ages, sea level repeatedly rose and fell by hundreds of feet. During high stands, coral reefs grew across the platform, forming the Key Largo Limestone that underlies the modern reefs. When sea level dropped, these reefs were exposed, hardened and eroded.
About 6,000 years ago, rising seas at the end of the last ice age flooded the southern Florida Platform, cutting the Tortugas off from the mainland. As sea level stabilized, modern coral reefs began growing on top of the ancient Pleistocene reef ridges, building upward toward the surface.
The islands themselves are made of sand, not solid rock. Waves and currents broke down corals, shells and calcareous algae into carbonate sand that accumulated on shallow reef platforms to form keys. These sandy islands are constantly reshaped by storms, and some have merged, split or vanished over the past two centuries.
Deep time
- Nearly 200 million years agoThe Florida Platform begins accumulating thick carbonate sediments in warm, shallow seas.
- Pleistocene EpochCoral reefs grow during high sea levels, forming the Key Largo Limestone foundation.
- Pleistocene glacial periodsLow sea levels expose ancient reefs to erosion and weathering.
- About 6,000 years agoRising seas flood the platform, isolating the Tortugas, and modern reefs begin to grow.
- Holocene to presentWaves pile carbonate sand into low keys that shift, merge and erode with storms.
- Winter of 1977An unusual cold-water event kills much of the park's branching staghorn coral.
The rocks
- Florida Platform carbonatesJurassic to presentA carbonate platform thousands of meters thick beneath South Florida and the Keys.
- Key Largo LimestonePleistoceneFossil coral reef rock forming the foundation of the modern reefs.
- Modern coral reefsHolocene, last 6,000 yearsLiving reefs built by star, brain and branching corals atop Pleistocene ridges.
- Carbonate sand keysHoloceneLow islands of coral and shell sand that constantly shift with waves and storms.
- Seagrass and sand flatsHoloceneShallow soft-bottom habitats that trap sediment and shelter marine life.
Trees, Plants & Ecosystems
- 155vascular plant species recorded
- Coral reefsShallow to about 100 ft deepAbout 30 species of stony coral build reefs sheltering hundreds of fish species.
- Seagrass meadowsShallow flatsTurtle grass and manatee grass beds feed green sea turtles and nursery fish.
- Sandy beachesIsland shorelinesNesting sites for loggerhead and green sea turtles.
- Island scrub and dunesIsland interiorsSea oats, bay cedar and beach morning glory stabilize low dunes.
- Seabird nesting coloniesBush Key and adjacent isletsThe only large nesting colonies of sooty terns and brown noddies in the continental United States.
Trees
- Sea grapeCoccoloba uviferaA coastal tree with round, leathery leaves and grape-like fruit.
- ButtonwoodConocarpus erectusA salt-tolerant tree growing near island shorelines.
- Red mangroveRhizophora mangleIts arching prop roots line the edges of some keys.
- Black mangroveAvicennia germinansGrows in salty soils, sending up pencil-like breathing roots.
- White mangroveLaguncularia racemosaFound on Bush Key and other low islands.
- Coconut palmCocos nuciferaA non-native palm that grows on Garden Key near the fort.
Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants
- Bay cedarSuriana maritimaA salt-tolerant shrub with fragrant leaves and yellow flowers, providing nesting cover for noddies.
- Sea oatsUniola paniculataA tall dune grass that anchors shifting sand.
- Beach morning gloryIpomoea pes-capraePink-flowered vines creeping across beaches.
- Sea purslaneSesuvium portulacastrumA succulent groundcover of beach edges.
- Seaside heliotropeHeliotropium curassavicumA salt-tolerant herb with tiny white flowers.
- Sea rocketCakile lanceolataA pioneer plant of the upper beach.
- Erect prickly pearOpuntia strictaA cactus thriving in dry, sandy island soils.
- SaltwortBatis maritimaA succulent shrub of salty flats.
- Turtle grassThalassia testudinumThe dominant seagrass in the shallow waters around the keys.
- Manatee grassSyringodium filiformeA seagrass with cylindrical blades, grazed by green sea turtles.
Wildlife
- 6mammals
- 289birds
- 4reptiles
- 261fish
Mammals
- Common bottlenose dolphinTursiops truncatusFrequently seen in park waters.
- West Indian manateeTrichechus manatusAn occasional visitor to the seagrass flats.
- Short-finned pilot whaleGlobicephala macrorhynchusA deep-water whale occasionally seen offshore.
- Black ratRattus rattusA non-native species that threatens nesting seabirds.
Birds
- Sooty ternSterna fuscataTens of thousands nest on Bush Key from late winter through summer.
- Brown noddyAnous stolidusA dark tern nesting alongside sooty terns on Bush Key.
- Magnificent frigatebirdFregata magnificensThe park hosts the only nesting colony of this seabird in the continental United States.
- Masked boobySula dactylatraNests on Hospital Key, the only nesting site in the continental United States.
- Brown boobySula leucogasterOften seen perched on channel markers and buoys.
- Black noddyAnous minutusA rare tropical tern occasionally found among brown noddies.
- Royal ternSterna maximaA large, orange-billed tern fishing in park waters.
- Brown pelicanPelecanus occidentalisOften seen diving for fish near Garden Key.
- Peregrine falconFalco peregrinusHunts migrating songbirds during spring and fall migration.
- Antillean nighthawkChordeiles gundlachiiA Caribbean nighthawk that arrives in summer; its call gives it the nickname piramidig.
- Reddish egretEgretta rufescensA wading bird that dances in shallow water to catch fish.
- OspreyPandion haliaetusDives for fish in the shallow waters around the keys.
Reptiles & amphibians
- Loggerhead sea turtleCaretta carettaNests on Loggerhead Key and other park beaches.
- Green sea turtleChelonia mydasGrazes on seagrass beds and nests on the keys.
- Hawksbill sea turtleEretmochelys imbricataA critically endangered turtle foraging on the reefs.
- Leatherback sea turtleDermochelys coriaceaA rare visitor to park waters.
Fish
- Goliath grouperEpinephelus itajaraA giant grouper that can exceed 600 pounds, often seen near the fort.
- Great barracudaSphyraena barracudaA sleek predator common around the moat walls.
- TarponMegalops atlanticusLarge, silvery fish schooling around Fort Jefferson.
- Nurse sharkGinglymostoma cirratumA slow-moving shark resting on the seafloor.
- Stoplight parrotfishSparisoma virideGrazes algae from corals, producing sand.
- Blue parrotfishScarus coeruleusA vivid blue grazer of reefs.
- French angelfishPomacanthus paruOften seen in pairs on the reefs.
- Queen angelfishHolacanthus ciliarisA striking blue and yellow angelfish.
- Sergeant majorAbudefduf saxatilisA striped damselfish common near the fort's moat wall.
- Gray snapperLutjanus griseusSchools around coral heads and pilings.
- Bluestriped gruntHaemulon sciurusGrunts form dense schools in reef crevices.
- HogfishLachnolaimus maximusA wrasse that roots in sand for invertebrates.
Insects & other invertebrates
- Elkhorn coralAcropora palmataA threatened branching coral once dominant on shallow reefs.
- Staghorn coralAcropora cervicornisA threatened coral with antler-like branches.
- Mountainous star coralOrbicella faveolataA massive reef-building coral, listed as threatened.
- Boulder star coralOrbicella franksiForms large mounds on the reefs.
- Lobed star coralOrbicella annularisA threatened coral forming lobed columns.
- Pillar coralDendrogyra cylindrusA rare coral forming upright columns.
Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).
Climate & When to Visit
Dry Tortugas has a warm, tropical climate with temperatures typically ranging from about 60 °F to 90 °F. Surrounded by open water, the islands experience little temperature variation between day and night. Despite the ocean, they are among the driest places in Florida, averaging about 38 inches of rain a year.
The year divides into two main seasons. From December through March, cold fronts bring stronger winds, rougher seas and milder, drier weather. From June through November, the hurricane season brings hot, humid conditions and a higher chance of thunderstorms and tropical storms.
- SpringPleasant temperatures and calmer seas; spring migration brings many songbirds to the islands.
- SummerHot and humid with calm seas and excellent snorkeling, but thunderstorms and tropical systems are possible.
- AutumnHurricane season peaks; fall migration brings raptors and songbirds.
- WinterMilder and drier, but frequent cold fronts bring strong winds and rough seas that can cancel ferries.
- Hurricanes
- Monitor forecasts during hurricane season, June through November; the park may close during storms.
- Rough seas
- Winter cold fronts create strong winds and choppy seas; ferry trips may be cancelled.
- Sun exposure
- There is little shade; use reef-safe sunscreen and bring plenty of water.
- Strong currents
- Swim only in designated areas and be cautious of currents near channels.
- Remote location
- There are no stores or fresh water; bring all supplies.
Dry Tortugas Questions
When is the best time to visit Dry Tortugas National Park?
Late spring and early summer often bring calm seas and warm water for snorkeling. Winter can be windy with rough seas, while late summer and fall carry a risk of hurricanes.
How do you get to Dry Tortugas?
Visitors travel by ferry or seaplane from Key West, a trip of about 70 miles. Private boats are also permitted with proper planning.
What is the weather like in Dry Tortugas?
Expect warm temperatures year-round, generally between 60 °F and 90 °F. Winter brings wind and rough seas, while summer is hot and humid with the chance of storms.
Can you snorkel at Dry Tortugas?
Yes. The waters around Garden Key and Loggerhead Key offer excellent snorkeling, with coral reefs, colorful fish and sometimes sea turtles.
Why is it called Dry Tortugas?
Ponce de León named the islands 'Tortugas' for the sea turtles he found there in 1513. Later mariners added 'Dry' because the islands have no fresh water.
What birds nest in Dry Tortugas?
Bush Key hosts large colonies of sooty terns and brown noddies, and the park is the only nesting site in the continental United States for magnificent frigatebirds and masked boobies.
More parks in the East
- AcadiaMaine
- BiscayneFlorida
- CongareeSouth Carolina
- EvergladesFlorida
- Great Smoky MountainsNorth Carolina, Tennessee
- Mammoth CaveKentucky
- New River GorgeWest Virginia
- ShenandoahVirginia
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Sources: www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · irmaservices.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · Official NPS site