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Hot Springs National Park

Arkansas · Established March 4, 1921

Ancient rainwater rising hot through the folded heart of the Ouachitas

Area: 5,554 acres
Established: March 4, 1921
Recreation visits: 2,494,611 / yr
State: Arkansas
Highest point: Music Mountain, about 1,405 ft (428 m)
Area: 5,554 acres (22.5 km²)

Hot Springs Weather Forecast

Loading the National Weather Service forecast for Hot Springs…

Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (34.524, -93.063). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.

Map of Hot Springs National Park

The Park

In the valley of Hot Springs Creek, water that fell as rain thousands of years ago returns to the surface at about 143°F. For centuries people have come to soak in it, and the town that grew up around the springs built an elegant row of bathhouses to receive them. Congress set the springs aside in 1832, making this one of the oldest protected places in the national park system, and it became a national park in 1921.

Beyond the bathhouses the park climbs onto wooded ridges of the Ouachita Mountains, among the oldest folded rocks in the central United States. Shortleaf pines and oaks shade the trails, novaculite glades bake in the sun, and quiet hollows hold dogwood, redbud, and Christmas fern, all within a few minutes' walk of downtown.

Geography

Hot Springs National Park lies in west-central Arkansas on the eastern edge of the Ouachita Mountains, a range of long, east–west ridges unusual in North America for trending across rather than along the continent. The park forms an irregular ring around the city of Hot Springs, taking in Hot Springs, North, West, Sugarloaf, Music, and Indian mountains and the narrow valley between them.

The thermal springs emerge along the lower western slope of Hot Springs Mountain, where most were long ago capped and piped to supply the bathhouses. Two springs remain open for visitors to see. Hot Springs Creek, now largely routed beneath Central Avenue, drains the valley, while Gulpha Creek cuts a small gorge on the park's eastern side.

At roughly 5,550 acres, it is one of the smallest national parks, yet more than 26 miles of trails thread its forested mountains.

Landmarks

Bathhouse RowAreaA line of historic bathhouses built largely between 1892 and 1923 along Central Avenue, fed by the thermal springs.
Hot Springs Mountain TowerAreaAn observation tower on Hot Springs Mountain with sweeping views across the Ouachita ridges.
Hot Springs MountainPeakThe novaculite ridge from whose western base the park's thermal springs emerge.
North MountainPeakA wooded ridge north of the springs laced with hiking trails.
West MountainPeakA long ridge west of downtown with scenic drives and overlooks.
Sugarloaf MountainPeakA forested summit on the park's western side.
Music MountainPeak · 1,405 ftThe park's highest ridge, at about 1,405 feet.
Indian MountainPeakA ridge in the park's northeastern section above Gulpha Creek.
Middle Branch Gulpha CreekRiverA clear Ouachita stream on the park's eastern side, flowing past the Gulpha Gorge area.

Geology

The rocks of the park began as sediment on the floor of a deep ocean basin south of ancient North America. From the Ordovician through the Mississippian periods, roughly 480 to 320 million years ago, layers of mud, silica-rich ooze, and sand accumulated slowly there, later hardening into shale, chert, novaculite, and sandstone.

Near the end of the Paleozoic Era, as the continents gathered into Pangaea, the collision of a southern landmass with North America crumpled these layers in the Ouachita orogeny. The strata were folded, overturned, and broken by thrust faults, and erosion over the following 300 million years has carved them into the ridges seen today. Hard, fractured Arkansas Novaculite forms the backbones of Hot Springs Mountain and its neighbors, while softer shales underlie the valleys.

Those same deformed rocks make the hot springs possible. Rain and snowmelt soak into fractured chert and novaculite on nearby ridges and descend slowly, perhaps 4,000 to 8,000 feet, where the natural heat of the Earth warms them. After a journey of roughly 4,000 years, the water finds a fast path upward along faults and fractures at the plunging crest of a large overturned fold and emerges at the base of Hot Springs Mountain without cooling much along the way.

The water is not volcanic in origin, and it carries only modest amounts of dissolved minerals, chiefly silica and calcium bicarbonate. Where it spills over the ground it has built deposits of tufa, a porous calcium carbonate rock visible near the open springs.

Deep time

About 480–320 million years agoMud, chert, and sand settle in a deep ocean basin south of North America.
About 400 million years agoSilica-rich sediments accumulate that will become the Arkansas Novaculite.
About 320–300 million years agoContinental collision during the Ouachita orogeny folds and thrusts the rock layers into mountains.
Last 250 million yearsLong erosion wears the Ouachitas down, leaving resistant novaculite and sandstone as ridges.
About 4,000 years agoRain falls that is only now emerging as hot spring water.
1832Congress sets aside the hot springs as a federal reservation.

The rocks

Arkansas NovaculiteDevonian to Mississippian
A dense, fractured, whitish chert that caps the park's ridges and is the recharge path for spring water.
Bigfork ChertOrdovician
Thin-bedded chert and silty chert, fractured enough to transmit groundwater.
Stanley ShaleMississippian
Dark shale with interbedded sandstone underlying much of the lower terrain.
Hot Springs SandstoneMississippian
A hard sandstone member near the base of the Stanley Shale, exposed near the springs.
Polk Creek ShaleOrdovician
Black graptolite-bearing shale within the folded sequence.
Missouri Mountain ShaleSilurian
Colorful shale lying between the Blaylock Sandstone and Arkansas Novaculite.
Tufa depositsHolocene
Porous calcium carbonate precipitated by spring water on the slope of Hot Springs Mountain.

Trees, Plants & Ecosystems

393vascular plant species recorded

Oak-hickory-pine forestAbout 600–1,400 ft
The dominant cover, with shortleaf pine, white and red oaks, and mockernut and black hickory on ridges and slopes.
Novaculite glades and dry woodlandRidge tops and south slopes
Thin soils over rock support post and blackjack oak, little bluestem, prickly pear, and heat-loving wildflowers.
Mesic hollows and streamsidesValley bottoms
Moist ravines hold sweetgum, sycamore, red maple, Christmas fern, and spring wildflowers along creeks such as Gulpha Creek.
Thermal spring outflowsBase of Hot Springs Mountain
Hot, mineral water supports heat-tolerant algae and bacteria, while the rare Venus maidenhair fern grows on warm, wet tufa.

Trees

Shortleaf pinePinus echinataThe signature pine of the Ouachitas, with some old trees more than two centuries old.
White oakQuercus albaA long-lived oak of the park's older forest stands.
Post oakQuercus stellataDrought-hardy oak with cross-shaped leaves, common on dry ridges.
Northern red oakQuercus rubraGrows on richer, moister slopes and colors deep red in autumn.
Black oakQuercus velutinaAn upland oak of the oak-pine forest.
Mockernut hickoryCarya tomentosaIts heavy nuts feed squirrels and deer through winter.
Black hickoryCarya texanaA small hickory of dry, rocky Ouachita slopes.
SweetgumLiquidambar styracifluaStar-shaped leaves and spiky seed balls in moist hollows.
Red mapleAcer rubrumOne of the first trees to flower red in late winter.
Flowering dogwoodCornus floridaIts white bracts brighten the understory in April.
Eastern redbudCercis canadensisMagenta blossoms on bare branches announce spring on the mountain drives.
Eastern red cedarJuniperus virginianaColonizes glades and old openings on thin, rocky soils.

Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants

Venus maidenhair fernAdiantum capillus-venerisA delicate fern that thrives on the warm, damp tufa near the springs.
Christmas fernPolystichum acrostichoidesAn evergreen fern of shaded hollows, green all winter.
Purple coneflowerEchinacea purpureaA native prairie flower of sunny openings, beloved by butterflies.
Butterfly milkweedAsclepias tuberosaBright orange blooms on dry, open slopes in early summer.
Red buckeyeAesculus paviaA shrub whose scarlet flower spikes attract early hummingbirds.
MayapplePodophyllum peltatumUmbrella-like leaves carpet moist woods in spring.
Smooth hydrangeaHydrangea arborescensA native shrub with white flower clusters along shady creeks.
American beautyberryCallicarpa americanaClusters of vivid purple berries ripen in autumn.
FarkleberryVaccinium arboreumA tall wild blueberry of dry, rocky woods.
Winged sumacRhus copallinumTurns brilliant red in fall along glades and roadsides.
Little bluestemSchizachyrium scopariumA bunchgrass of glades that turns copper-orange in autumn.
Downy phloxPhlox pilosaPink spring blossoms along open woodland edges.
Indian woodoatsChasmanthium latifoliumA streamside grass with flat, dangling seed heads.

Wildlife

38mammals
106birds
18reptiles
13amphibians
28fish

Mammals

RaccoonProcyon lotorCommon along creeks and, inevitably, near town.
Virginia opossumDidelphis virginianaNorth America's only marsupial, active at night.
Eastern gray squirrelSciurus carolinensisBusy in the oak-hickory forest, especially in autumn.
Eastern chipmunkTamias striatusScampers among rocks and logs on the mountain trails.
Southern flying squirrelGlaucomys volansA nocturnal glider of mature hardwood forest.
Gray foxUrocyon cinereoargenteusA shy, tree-climbing fox of wooded ridges.
BobcatLynx rufusAn elusive hunter of the park's forests.
Nine-banded armadilloDasypus novemcinctusA relative newcomer that has spread north into Arkansas.
Striped skunkMephitis mephitisForages at night along forest edges.
Eastern cottontailSylvilagus floridanusCommon in openings and along trails at dawn and dusk.
Eastern pipistrelle (tricolored bat)Pipistrellus subflavusA tiny bat that flutters over creeks at dusk.
American black bearUrsus americanusOccasionally wanders through the forested ridges of the Ouachitas.

Birds

Pileated woodpeckerDryocopus pileatusThe crow-sized woodpecker of mature forest, with a loud, wild call.
Red-bellied woodpeckerMelanerpes carolinusA common, noisy woodpecker of oak woods.
Barred owlStrix variaIts 'who cooks for you' call echoes from hollows at night.
Red-shouldered hawkButeo lineatusA vocal hawk of wooded creek bottoms.
Pine warblerDendroica pinusA yellow songbird that trills from the tops of shortleaf pines.
Summer tanagerPiranga rubraAn all-red summer resident that feeds on bees and wasps.
Carolina wrenThryothorus ludovicianusA small bird with a remarkably loud 'teakettle' song.
Northern cardinalCardinalis cardinalisA year-round splash of red in thickets and yards.
White-breasted nuthatchSitta carolinensisCreeps headfirst down tree trunks in search of insects.
Belted kingfisherCeryle alcyonRattles along Gulpha Creek and other park streams.
Northern mockingbirdMimus polyglottosA master mimic of openings and town edges.
Black vultureCoragyps atratusSoars over the ridges with turkey vultures.
Turkey vultureCathartes auraRides warm air rising off the mountains.

Reptiles & amphibians

CopperheadAgkistrodon contortrixA well-camouflaged venomous snake of leaf litter and rocky slopes; watch your step.
Green anoleAnolis carolinensisA small lizard that turns from green to brown and flashes a pink throat fan.
Midland water snakeNerodia sipedonA harmless but often mistaken snake of creeks.
Red-eared sliderTrachemys scriptaA basking turtle of ponds and slow water.
American toadBufo americanusTrills from wet spots on warm spring nights.
Spring peeperPseudacris cruciferA tiny frog whose peeping chorus marks late winter.
Southern leopard frogRana sphenocephalaA spotted frog of creek edges and wet meadows.
American bullfrogRana catesbeianaThe deep-voiced giant among the park's frogs.

Fish

Largemouth bassMicropterus salmoidesA predator of the deeper, slower pools.
Spotted bassMicropterus punctulatusA native bass of Ouachita streams.
Longear sunfishLepomis megalotisOne of the most colorful fish in the park's creeks.
Central stonerollerCampostoma anomalumScrapes algae from rocks in riffles.
Orangebelly darterEtheostoma radiosumA bright little darter native to Ouachita Mountain streams.
Greenside darterEtheostoma blennioidesA darter that perches on rocks in fast riffles.

Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).

Climate & When to Visit

Hot Springs has a humid subtropical climate with long, warm summers and short, generally mild winters. Moist air flowing north from the Gulf of Mexico gives summer afternoons heat index values that can approach 110°F, and nights stay warm and muggy. Winter brings periodic cold fronts, freezing nights, and wind chills that can feel close to 15°F, though lasting snow is uncommon.

Rain falls in every season, but spring and autumn are usually wettest. Spring is the heart of the severe-weather season in Arkansas, when strong thunderstorms can bring hail, damaging wind, heavy rain, and occasionally tornadoes. Winter storms sometimes coat the ridges in ice.

Spring
Dogwood and redbud bloom in March and April; frequent rain and the peak of the thunderstorm season.
Summer
Hot and humid, with highs around 90°F, heat index values that can top 100°F, and pop-up afternoon storms.
Autumn
Pleasant, drier stretches and colorful hardwoods, typically peaking in late October and November.
Winter
Mild days and freezing nights; occasional ice or light snow, and the springs send up steam on cold mornings.

Weather hazards

Heat and humidity: Hike early on summer days, drink plenty of water, and watch for signs of heat exhaustion.
Severe thunderstorms: Spring storms can bring lightning, hail, and tornado warnings, so check the forecast before heading onto ridges.
Scalding water: The spring water is about 143°F and can burn, so do not touch water at the open springs.
Ice storms: Freezing rain can make mountain roads and trails treacherous in winter.
Ticks and chiggers: Use repellent and check for ticks after walking through grass or brush in warm months.

Hot Springs Questions

When is the best time to visit Hot Springs National Park?

Spring and autumn are most comfortable, with flowering dogwoods in April and colorful oaks and hickories in late October and November. Summer is hot and humid, while winter is mild and quiet, a fine time to soak in a bathhouse.

Why is the water at Hot Springs hot?

Rainwater seeps into fractured rock on nearby ridges and sinks thousands of feet, where the Earth's natural heat warms it. Faults then channel it quickly back to the surface, where it emerges at about 143°F after a journey of roughly 4,000 years. No volcano is involved.

Can you drink or bathe in the hot spring water?

Yes. The park provides public fountains where visitors can fill jugs with thermal water, and two historic bathhouses on Bathhouse Row still offer traditional or spa-style baths. Never touch the water at the open springs, which is hot enough to scald.

What is the weather like in Hot Springs?

Summers are hot and humid with highs around 90°F and frequent afternoon storms, while winters are generally mild with occasional freezes. Spring and autumn bring the most rainfall, and spring is the main season for severe thunderstorms.

What wildlife can I see in the park?

Look for gray squirrels, chipmunks, and white-breasted nuthatches along the trails, and pileated woodpeckers and barred owls in older forest. Armadillos, raccoons, and opossums are common around dusk.

What kind of rock forms the mountains of Hot Springs?

The ridges are built of Arkansas Novaculite, chert, shale, and sandstone deposited in a deep ocean basin hundreds of millions of years ago. They were folded during the Ouachita orogeny and then carved by erosion into today's ridges.

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Sources: www.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · en.wikipedia.org · www.summitpost.org · irmaservices.nps.gov · Official NPS site