National Parks › Rocky Mountains › Mesa Verde
Mesa Verde National Park
Colorado · Established June 29, 1906Sandstone alcoves sheltering the stone villages of the Ancestral Pueblo
- Area
- 52,485 acres
- Established
- June 29, 1906
- Recreation visits
- 463,130 / yr
- State
- Colorado
- Highest point
- Park Point, 8,572 ft (2,613 m)
- Lowest area
- Southern canyon bottoms, about 6,000 ft (1,830 m)
Mesa Verde Weather Forecast
Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (37.239, -108.462). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.
Map of Mesa Verde National Park
The Park
Mesa Verde, Spanish for green table, rises high above the Montezuma Valley of southwestern Colorado, its forested tableland slashed by deep canyons. In the sandstone alcoves of those canyon walls, Ancestral Pueblo people built villages of stone and mud mortar that still stand some seven or eight centuries later, the most famous cliff dwellings in North America.
Established on June 29, 1906, it was the first national park created to protect the works of people, and it later became one of the first World Heritage Sites in the United States. The park holds more than 4,800 known archaeological sites, including about 600 cliff dwellings, set within a landscape of pinyon, juniper, Gambel oak, and big open skies.
Geography
The park covers 52,485 acres on a broad upland that tilts gently to the south. Its steep northern escarpment rises abruptly above the Montezuma and Mancos valleys, reaching 8,572 feet at Park Point. From there the mesa slopes southward and splits into long, narrow fingers such as Chapin Mesa and Wetherill Mesa, separated by canyons that deepen as they run south toward the Mancos River.
Views from the rim sweep across four states, taking in the La Plata Mountains, Sleeping Ute Mountain, and Shiprock. The canyon walls face every direction, and many south- and west-facing alcoves trap winter sun, a quality that likely made them attractive places to build. Springs and seeps emerge where water percolating through the sandstone meets less permeable shale, providing water in a dry land.
Landmarks
- Cliff PalaceAreaThe largest cliff dwelling in North America, with about 150 rooms and more than 20 kivas.
- Spruce Tree HouseAreaOne of the best-preserved cliff dwellings, tucked into a deep alcove near the Chapin Mesa museum.
- Balcony HouseAreaA cliff dwelling reached by ladders and a narrow tunnel on the wall of Soda Canyon.
- Square Tower HouseAreaHome to the tallest standing structure in the park, a four-story tower.
- Sun TempleAreaA large, D-shaped mesa-top structure across the canyon from Cliff Palace.
- Long HouseAreaThe second-largest cliff dwelling in the park, on Wetherill Mesa.
- Step HouseAreaAn alcove with both an early pithouse village and a later masonry pueblo.
- Far View SitesAreaA cluster of mesa-top villages and a reservoir from the height of farming on the mesa.
- Park PointPeak · 8,572 ftThe park's highest point and site of a historic fire lookout with views into four states.
- Point LookoutPeakThe prominent sandstone prow at the north end of the mesa, visible from the park entrance.
- Soda Canyon OverlookCanyonA rim viewpoint looking into Soda Canyon toward Balcony House.
Geology
Every layer of rock at Mesa Verde was laid down along the shifting shores of the Western Interior Seaway, which split North America during the Cretaceous Period. About 100 million years ago the sea advanced across the region, leaving beach sands that became the Dakota Sandstone, the resistant floor of the Montezuma Valley. As the water deepened, thick gray mud settled on the seafloor, forming the Mancos Shale, rich with oysters, clams, snails, shark teeth, and ammonites.
Later the sea retreated and returned more than once. Nearshore sands formed the Point Lookout Sandstone; coastal swamps and lagoons more than 80 million years ago left the shale, thin sandstones, and coal of the Menefee Formation; and a final advance of the sea spread the orange-buff sands of the Cliff House Sandstone, whose ripple marks and rare starfish impressions record its shoreline origin. Together these three units make up the Mesaverde Group.
Uplift of the Colorado Plateau later raised these layers thousands of feet, and streams carved them into the mesa and canyon landscape of today. The whole mesa tilts about seven degrees to the south. The alcoves that shelter the cliff dwellings formed where water seeping down through porous sandstone hit less permeable shale below, dissolving the calcium carbonate cement, loosening grains, and allowing freeze-thaw cycles to pry slabs from the ceiling.
Deep time
- About 100 million years agoThe Western Interior Seaway spreads across the region, depositing the Dakota Sandstone.
- Late CretaceousDeeper marine mud accumulates as the thick Mancos Shale.
- Late CretaceousThe retreating shoreline leaves the beach and nearshore sands of the Point Lookout Sandstone.
- More than 80 million years agoSwamps and lagoons on a coastal plain form the coal-bearing Menefee Formation.
- Late CretaceousThe sea returns, laying down the Cliff House Sandstone that later hosts the cliff dwellings.
- Last several million yearsUplift and erosion carve the tilted tableland into mesas, canyons, and alcoves.
- About 550 to 1300 CEAncestral Pueblo people farm the mesa tops and, from the late 1190s to the late 1270s, build most of the cliff dwellings.
The rocks
- Dakota SandstoneCretaceous, about 100 million yearsAn erosion-resistant sandstone forming the base of the Montezuma Valley.
- Mancos ShaleLate CretaceousThick gray marine shale with abundant fossil shells, prone to landslides on the mesa's flanks.
- Point Lookout SandstoneLate CretaceousTan to buff cliff-forming sandstone that makes up the prominent northern escarpment.
- Menefee FormationLate CretaceousDark shale, thin sandstones, and coal from an ancient coastal plain, with fossil plant remains.
- Cliff House SandstoneLate CretaceousOrange-buff sandstone where the great alcoves and cliff dwellings formed.
Trees, Plants & Ecosystems
- 813vascular plant species recorded
- Pinyon-juniper woodlandAbout 6,000–7,500 ftThe classic mesa-top forest of Colorado pinyon and Utah juniper, where Ancestral Pueblo farmers cleared fields.
- Mountain shrublandAbout 7,000–8,500 ftDense thickets of Gambel oak, serviceberry, mountain mahogany, and bitterbrush, especially in areas regrowing after wildfire.
- Ponderosa pine and mixed coniferCool canyons and northern slopesPonderosa pine and Douglas-fir grow in sheltered, north-facing canyon heads.
- Semi-desert grassland and shrub steppeLower slopes and valleysSagebrush, grasses, and cacti on the dry lower edges of the park.
- Seeps and canyon bottomsCanyon alcoves and floorsSprings and moist alcove bases support ferns, cottonwoods, and wildlife watering places.
Trees
- Colorado pinyonPinus edulisA small pine whose nuts fed people and wildlife for millennia.
- Utah juniperJuniperus osteospermaA shaggy-barked tree sharing the woodland with pinyon.
- Rocky Mountain juniperJuniperus scopulorumFound in cooler, moister locations.
- Gambel oakQuercus gambeliiForms dense thickets that turn gold and rust in autumn.
- Ponderosa pinePinus ponderosaGrows in cool canyon heads with deeper soils.
- Douglas-firPseudotsuga menziesiiClings to shaded, north-facing canyon walls.
- Quaking aspenPopulus tremuloidesSmall groves near the moist high northern rim.
- Fremont cottonwoodPopulus fremontiiGrows where water collects in canyon bottoms.
- Alderleaf mountain mahoganyCercocarpus montanusA shrubby tree with feathery, spiraled seeds.
- Utah serviceberryAmelanchier utahensisWhite spring blossoms and berries eaten by birds and people.
Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants
- Banana yuccaYucca baccataIts fibers were used for sandals, cordage, and baskets.
- Big sagebrushArtemisia tridentataAn aromatic shrub of lower, open slopes.
- Antelope bitterbrushPurshia tridentataAn important winter browse plant for deer and elk.
- Claret cup cactusEchinocereus triglochidiatusBrilliant red flowers bloom on rocky ledges in spring.
- Plains pricklypearOpuntia polyacanthaA spiny cactus with yellow to pink flowers.
- Wyoming paintbrushCastilleja linariifoliaScarlet spires among sagebrush and oak.
- Rocky Mountain penstemonPenstemon strictusDeep blue-purple flowers along roadsides.
- Sego lilyCalochortus nuttalliiDelicate white tulip-like flowers in early summer.
- Scarlet giliaIpomopsis aggregataRed trumpet flowers visited by hummingbirds.
- Arrowleaf balsamrootBalsamorhiza sagittataBig yellow sunflower-like blooms in spring.
- Cliff Palace milkvetchAstragalus deteriorA rare milkvetch restricted to the Mesa Verde region.
- FendlerbushFendlera rupicolaA shrub with white four-petaled flowers on rocky cliffs.
- Skunkbush sumacRhus trilobataIts flexible stems were used in basketry.
- Blue gramaBouteloua gracilisA short grass with eyebrow-shaped seed heads.
Wildlife
- 65mammals
- 205birds
- 16reptiles
- 3amphibians
Mammals
- Mule deerOdocoileus hemionusThe most commonly seen large mammal in the park.
- ElkCervus elaphusHerds move through the park, especially in fall and winter.
- American black bearUrsus americanusForages on acorns and berries in oak thickets.
- CougarPuma concolorAn elusive predator of deer.
- BobcatLynx rufusA small cat of rocky canyons.
- Gray foxUrocyon cinereoargenteusOften seen at dusk on mesa roads.
- CoyoteCanis latransCommon across the mesas.
- RingtailBassariscus astutusA nocturnal, cat-like relative of the raccoon living in cliffs.
- Abert's squirrelSciurus abertiA tassel-eared squirrel of ponderosa pine forest.
- Colorado chipmunkNeotamias rufusScampers over rocks near cliff dwellings.
- Mexican woodratNeotoma mexicanaBuilds nests in rock crevices and alcoves.
- PorcupineErethizon dorsatumFeeds on pinyon bark in winter.
- Townsend's big-eared batCorynorhinus townsendiiRoosts in alcoves and crevices.
- Pallid batAntrozous pallidusHunts large insects and scorpions on the ground.
Birds
- Wild turkeyMeleagris gallopavoAncestral Pueblo people kept turkeys for their feathers and food.
- Pinyon jayGymnorhinus cyanocephalusNoisy flocks that harvest and cache pinyon nuts.
- Woodhouse's scrub-jayAphelocoma californicaA bold blue jay of oak and pinyon woodland.
- Juniper titmouseBaeolophus ridgwayiA plain gray bird of pinyon-juniper woodland.
- Golden eagleAquila chrysaetosSoars over the mesas and canyons.
- Peregrine falconFalco peregrinusNests on tall cliffs.
- Mexican spotted owlStrix occidentalisA threatened owl of shady canyons.
- Canyon wrenCatherpes mexicanusIts cascading song echoes off canyon walls.
- White-throated swiftAeronautes saxatalisRaces along cliff faces catching insects.
- Mountain bluebirdSialia currucoidesA sky-blue bird of open areas.
- Spotted towheePipilo maculatusScratches in the leaf litter under oak thickets.
- Common poorwillPhalaenoptilus nuttalliiA nightjar that calls on warm summer nights.
- Broad-tailed hummingbirdSelasphorus platycercusIts wings make a metallic trill in flight.
- BushtitPsaltriparus minimusTiny gray birds that travel in chattering flocks.
Reptiles & amphibians
- Prairie rattlesnakeCrotalus viridisThe only rattlesnake in the park, usually found basking near rocks and trails.
- Gopher snakePituophis cateniferA large, harmless constrictor that mimics a rattlesnake when threatened.
- Plateau fence lizardSceloporus undulatusCommonly seen basking on rocks and walls.
- Collared lizardCrotaphytus collarisA colorful lizard that can run on its hind legs.
- Greater short-horned lizardPhrynosoma hernandesiA flat, spiny lizard that eats ants.
- Plateau striped whiptailCnemidophorus veloxAn all-female species that reproduces without males.
- Tiger salamanderAmbystoma tigrinumBreeds in stock ponds and seasonal pools.
- Red-spotted toadBufo punctatusA small toad of rocky canyons and potholes.
Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).
Climate & When to Visit
Mesa Verde has a semi-arid, four-season climate shaped by its elevation, which ranges from about 6,000 to more than 8,500 feet. Summer days are usually sunny and warm, sometimes topping 90°F, but nights cool quickly under dry, clear skies. In July and August the North American monsoon draws moisture from the south, and afternoon thunderstorms build over the mesa, bringing lightning, gusty winds, brief downpours, and occasional hail.
Spring is changeable, with clear days, wind, rain, and temperatures from 40 to 70°F; snow can fall into May. Autumn is often the most settled season, with temperatures from 50 to 75°F, though snow can arrive as early as October. Winter brings temperatures from the teens to the low 30s °F, snow on the mesa, and icy roads that may require snow tires, all-wheel drive, or chains.
- SpringVariable weather with wind, rain, and temperatures of 40–70°F; snow can fall into May, and many cliff dwelling tours begin later in spring.
- SummerMostly sunny with highs that can exceed 90°F; monsoon thunderstorms are common in July and August.
- AutumnPleasant temperatures of 50–75°F and golden Gambel oak; snow is possible from October.
- WinterCold, with temperatures from the teens to low 30s °F; snow and ice are common and some roads and sites close.
- Lightning
- Summer thunderstorms bring frequent lightning to exposed mesa tops and overlooks, so seek shelter in a vehicle.
- Heat and altitude
- Elevations above 7,000 feet and strong sun can cause fatigue and dehydration, so carry water.
- Icy roads
- The steep, winding entrance road can be icy in winter, and chains or snow tires may be required.
- Wildfire
- Dry conditions and lightning make wildfire a recurring risk in summer.
- Ladders and steep trails
- Some cliff dwelling tours involve tall ladders, narrow passages, and steep steps.
Mesa Verde Questions
When is the best time to visit Mesa Verde National Park?
Late spring through early autumn offers the most tours, open roads, and pleasant weather. September and early October are especially nice, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds.
What is the weather like at Mesa Verde?
Summers are sunny and warm with afternoon monsoon thunderstorms in July and August. Spring and autumn are mild but changeable, and winters are cold with snow and icy roads.
Who built the cliff dwellings?
Ancestral Pueblo people lived at Mesa Verde from about 550 to 1300 CE. They farmed the mesa tops for centuries before building most of the cliff dwellings between the late 1190s and late 1270s.
Why are the cliff dwellings built in alcoves?
Water seeping through the porous Cliff House Sandstone stops at less permeable shale layers, weakening the rock and forming natural alcoves. These alcoves provided shelter from weather and often caught warm winter sun.
What wildlife can I see?
Mule deer and wild turkeys are commonly seen, along with pinyon jays, canyon wrens, and lizards. Elk, black bears, and bobcats are present but less often spotted.
How high is Mesa Verde?
The park's highest point is Park Point at 8,572 feet, and much of the mesa top lies between 7,000 and 8,000 feet. Visitors may notice the thinner air during hikes and ladder climbs.
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Sources: www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · irmaservices.nps.gov · Official NPS site