National Parks › Desert Southwest › Great Basin

Great Basin National Park

Nevada · Established October 27, 1986

Ancient bristlecones, marble caverns and a desert peak that holds ice

Area: 77,180 acres
Established: October 27, 1986
Recreation visits: 161,210 / yr
State: Nevada
Established: October 27, 1986 (Lehman Caves National Monument, 1922)
Area: 77,180 acres (312 km²)

Great Basin Weather Forecast

Loading the National Weather Service forecast for Great Basin…

Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (38.946, -114.258). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.

Map of Great Basin National Park

The Park

Great Basin National Park rises like an island from the sagebrush sea of eastern Nevada. In the span of a single drive, the road climbs from desert valleys through pinyon and juniper, aspen and fir, to the flanks of Wheeler Peak at 13,063 ft, where the park's ice and ancient trees await.

The park, established on October 27, 1986, is small but full of superlatives. Near treeline grow Great Basin bristlecone pines, some thousands of years old, and a tree cut here in the 1960s was among the oldest living organisms ever known. Below ground, the marble passages of Lehman Caves glitter with formations. Above, far from city lights, some of the darkest night skies in the contiguous United States stretch overhead.

Geography

The park protects 77,180 acres of the southern Snake Range near the Utah border. Its mountains are part of the Basin and Range province, a corrugated landscape of north-south ranges separated by broad valleys that drain to no ocean. Water that falls here evaporates, sinks underground or collects in closed basins.

Wheeler Peak dominates the skyline, flanked by Doso Doyabi (formerly Jeff Davis Peak), Baker Peak and Pyramid Peak. Almost 8,000 ft separate the summit from the valley floor. Six small alpine lakes, including Stella, Teresa, Baker and Johnson, sit in glacial cirques, and a rock-covered glacier survives in the shadow of Wheeler Peak.

Lehman Caves, protected as a national monument in 1922, lies at the park's eastern edge near the visitor center. Streams such as Lehman, Baker and Snake creeks spill from the range and support ribbons of riparian life through the desert.

Landmarks

Wheeler PeakPeak · 13,063 ftThe park's high point and the second-highest summit in Nevada.
Doso DoyabiPeakFormerly Jeff Davis Peak, a sharp summit just east of Wheeler Peak.
Baker PeakPeakA high summit rising above the Baker Creek drainage.
Pyramid PeakPeakA symmetrical summit on the ridge south of Baker Lake.
Lehman CavesCaveA marble cave richly decorated with stalactites, columns and rare shield formations.
Stella LakeLakeA cirque lake on the Alpine Lakes Loop that mirrors Wheeler Peak.
Teresa LakeLakeA small tarn along the trail to the bristlecone grove and rock glacier.
Baker LakeLakeA backcountry lake in a cirque beneath Baker and Pyramid peaks.
Johnson LakeLakeA high lake near the ruins of an old tungsten mine.

Geology

Most of the park's rock began as sediment on the floor of shallow Cambrian seas more than 500 million years ago: quartz sand that became the Prospect Mountain Quartzite, mud that became the Pioche Shale, and lime that became the Pole Canyon Limestone and younger carbonate layers. Carbonate rock underlies roughly a third of the park.

In the Mesozoic, as the Pacific Plate dove beneath North America, magma rose beneath the region and cooled into granite plutons of Jurassic, Cretaceous and Tertiary age. Later, as the crust of the Basin and Range began stretching apart, a vast, nearly flat fault called the Southern Snake Range décollement sheared the rocks. Intense grinding beneath that fault recrystallized limestone into marble, and groundwater later dissolved the marble into Lehman Caves and the park's other caverns.

During the Pleistocene, glaciers carved cirques and U-shaped valleys high in the Snake Range, leaving the six tarns that fill those basins today. Wheeler Peak's glacier survives beneath a cover of quartzite rubble, and seven rock glaciers creep slowly downslope in the cold high country.

Deep time

Cambrian Period, more than 500 million years agoShallow seas deposited the sand, mud and lime that became quartzite, shale and limestone.
Jurassic and Cretaceous periodsGranite plutons intruded the Snake Range as the Pacific Plate subducted beneath North America.
Cenozoic EraCrustal stretching formed the Snake Range décollement and turned limestone beneath it into marble.
Pleistocene ice agesGlaciers carved cirques and valleys around Wheeler Peak.
Recent millenniaGroundwater dissolved and decorated Lehman Caves while rock glaciers developed in high cirques.

The rocks

Prospect Mountain QuartziteEarly Cambrian
Hard, resistant quartzite that forms Wheeler Peak and covers the rock glaciers with debris.
Pioche ShaleCambrian
A soft, fossil-bearing shale above the quartzite.
Pole Canyon LimestoneCambrian
Limestone altered to marble beneath the décollement, hosting Lehman Caves.
Notch Peak LimestoneLate Cambrian to Early Ordovician
Carbonate rock higher in the park's Paleozoic sequence.
Snake Creek–Williams Canyon plutonJurassic
Granitic rock intruded during Mesozoic subduction.
Pole Canyon plutonCretaceous
A granite body exposed beneath the Snake Range décollement.

Trees, Plants & Ecosystems

694vascular plant species recorded

Sagebrush desertValley floors and lower slopes
Sagebrush, rabbitbrush and bunchgrasses support jackrabbits, sage-grouse and pronghorn country.
Pinyon-juniper woodlandFoothills
Singleleaf pinyon and Utah juniper with mountain-mahogany, home to pinyon jays and woodrats.
Montane forest and aspenMid-elevation canyons
White fir, Douglas fir, ponderosa pine and aspen groves along streams.
Subalpine forest and bristlecone grovesUpper slopes near treeline
Engelmann spruce, limber pine and ancient bristlecones on quartzite boulder fields.
Alpine tundraAbove treeline on Wheeler Peak
Cushion plants, lichens and rock in a harsh, windswept world.
CavesMarble beneath the range
Stable, dark, humid habitats with a constant temperature near 50°F.

Trees

Great Basin bristlecone pinePinus longaevaWind-sculpted trees near treeline that can live for thousands of years.
Limber pinePinus flexilisShares the high, rocky slopes with bristlecones.
Singleleaf pinyonPinus monophyllaThe only pine with single needles, dominant in foothill woodlands.
Utah juniperJuniperus osteospermaA hardy partner of pinyon on dry slopes.
Curl-leaf mountain-mahoganyCercocarpus ledifoliusAn evergreen shrub-tree of rocky ridges prized as winter browse.
Engelmann sprucePicea engelmanniiForms dense subalpine stands below Wheeler Peak.
White firAbies concolorA common conifer of mid-elevation canyons.
Douglas firPseudotsuga menziesii var. glaucaFound on cooler canyon slopes.
Ponderosa pinePinus ponderosa var. scopulorumScattered large pines in montane canyons.
Quaking aspenPopulus tremuloidesGlowing golden groves along the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive in fall.
Narrowleaf cottonwoodPopulus angustifoliaShades streams at lower elevations.
Rocky Mountain juniperJuniperus scopulorumA juniper of moister canyon sites.

Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants

Mountain big sagebrushArtemisia tridentata var. vaseyanaThe signature shrub of the Great Basin's slopes.
Black sagebrushArtemisia novaA low sagebrush of shallow, rocky soils.
Antelope bitterbrushPurshia tridentataAn important browse shrub for mule deer.
Rubber rabbitbrushChrysothamnus nauseosusBrilliant yellow bloom in late summer.
Grizzlybear pricklypearOpuntia erinaceaA shaggy-spined cactus of dry lower slopes.
Firecracker penstemonPenstemon eatoniiScarlet tubular flowers favored by hummingbirds.
Nevada primrosePrimula nevadensisA rare primrose of high, rocky slopes.
Sticky polemoniumPolemonium viscosumBlue alpine flowers among quartzite boulders.
Crimson columbineAquilegia formosaRed and yellow spurred flowers near springs and streams.
Wyoming Indian paintbrushCastilleja linariifoliaRed spikes among sagebrush and woodland.
Dwarf alpine paintbrushCastilleja nanaA tiny, pale paintbrush of the high peaks.
Parry's primrosePrimula parryiMagenta flowers along cold, splashing streams.

Wildlife

54mammals
199birds
13reptiles
1amphibians
5fish

Mammals

Mule deerOdocoileus hemionusCommon along the scenic drive, especially at dusk.
Bighorn sheepOvis canadensisA small population lives in the rugged high country.
ElkCervus elaphusOccasionally seen in high meadows and aspen.
Mountain lionPuma concolorThe top predator, seldom seen.
BobcatLynx rufusHunts rodents and rabbits in woodland and scrub.
CoyoteCanis latransA widespread and adaptable predator.
Yellow-bellied marmotMarmota flaviventrisSuns on rocks in high meadows.
Cliff chipmunkTamias dorsalisA gray chipmunk of pinyon-juniper and rocky outcrops.
Least chipmunkTamias minimusA tiny striped chipmunk of sagebrush and forest edges.
Golden-mantled ground squirrelCallospermophilus lateralisOften mistaken for a large chipmunk at campgrounds.
White-tailed antelope squirrelAmmospermophilus leucurusScurries across desert flats with its tail held over its back.
Bushy-tailed woodratNeotoma cinereaBuilds middens in rock crevices and cave entrances.
Townsend's big-eared batCorynorhinus townsendiiA cave-roosting bat with enormous ears.

Birds

Clark's nutcrackerNucifraga columbianaCaches seeds of high-elevation pines.
Pinyon jayGymnorhinus cyanocephalusTravels in noisy flocks harvesting pinyon nuts.
Woodhouse's scrub-jayAphelocoma woodhouseiA long-tailed blue jay of foothill woodland.
Sage thrasherOreoscoptes montanusA sagebrush songbird with a long, rambling song.
Greater sage-grouseCentrocercus urophasianusDepends on intact sagebrush in the surrounding valleys.
Mountain bluebirdSialia currucoidesHovers over meadows hunting insects.
Golden eagleAquila chrysaetosSoars over ridges and open valleys.
Black rosy-finchLeucosticte atrataBreeds on the highest alpine cliffs and snowfields.
Canyon wrenCatherpes mexicanusIts cascading song echoes from rocky canyons.
American dipperCinclus mexicanusForages underwater in Lehman and Baker creeks.
Western bluebirdSialia mexicanaA cavity-nester of open pine and woodland.

Reptiles & amphibians

Great Basin rattlesnakeCrotalus lutosusThe park's only venomous snake, found in rocky desert and woodland.
Great Basin gopher snakePituophis catenifer deserticolaA large, harmless constrictor that mimics a rattlesnake when threatened.
Sagebrush lizardSceloporus graciosusA common small lizard of shrubland.
Western fence lizardSceloporus occidentalisBlue-bellied males display on rocks and logs.
Desert horned lizardPhrynosoma platyrhinosA flat, spiny lizard that feeds largely on ants.
Great Basin collared lizardCrotaphytus bicinctoresA powerful lizard of rocky, open slopes.
Desert striped whipsnakeMasticophis taeniatus taeniatusA slender, fast snake of shrubland.
Great Basin spadefootSpea intermontanaThe park's only amphibian, emerging to breed after heavy rain.

Fish

Bonneville cutthroat troutOncorhynchus clarkii utahA native trout restored to several park streams.
Brook troutSalvelinus fontinalisA non-native trout stocked in the past.
Brown troutSalmo truttaA non-native trout of lower streams.
Rainbow troutOncorhynchus mykissNon-native in the park's creeks.

Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).

Climate & When to Visit

Great Basin is a high desert with low humidity and big daily temperature swings. Because almost 8,000 ft separate the valley floor from Wheeler Peak's summit, the park spans climates from hot, dry sagebrush flats to a cold, windswept alpine zone. Higher elevations are cooler and wetter, while lower elevations are hotter and drier.

Most precipitation arrives as winter snow or as summer thunderstorms. In late spring and early summer, the valleys may be hot while snow still buries the high country. In summer, fierce afternoon storms are common over the peaks, and snow can fall at high elevations in any month. Deep underground, Lehman Caves holds steady at about 50°F year-round.

Spring
Valleys warm up while deep snow lingers above 9,000 ft. The upper Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive usually remains closed until snow clears.
Summer
Warm days and cool nights, with the most reliable access to Wheeler Peak and the alpine lakes. Afternoon thunderstorms with lightning are common.
Autumn
Crisp, clear days and golden aspen make September and early October beautiful. Early snowstorms can close the upper scenic drive.
Winter
Cold and snowy in the mountains with frigid nights. Lehman Caves tours continue, and snowshoeing and skiing are possible at higher elevations.

Weather hazards

Lightning: Leave Wheeler Peak's exposed summit ridge well before afternoon thunderstorms develop.
Altitude: The summit trail climbs above 13,000 ft, so acclimatize, pace yourself and watch for altitude sickness.
Snow in any month: Pack warm layers and rain gear for high-elevation hikes even in summer.
Sharp temperature drops: Desert nights cool quickly, so bring warm clothing for evening stargazing.
Dehydration: Dry air and elevation increase water loss, so carry more water than you expect to need.

Great Basin Questions

When is the best time to visit Great Basin National Park?

Summer and early fall are best, since the upper Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive and high trails are usually snow-free then. September offers golden aspen and clear skies, while Lehman Caves tours run year-round.

How old are the bristlecone pines?

Great Basin bristlecone pines can live for thousands of years. A bristlecone near Wheeler Peak, known as Prometheus, was at least 5,000 years old when it was cut down in the 1960s.

Is there really a glacier in Great Basin National Park?

Yes. A small glacier lies beneath a blanket of rock debris in a cirque below Wheeler Peak, and the park contains seven rock glaciers. A trail from the Wheeler Peak Campground leads past a bristlecone grove toward the glacier.

How did Lehman Caves form?

The cave lies in Cambrian limestone that was recrystallized into marble beneath the Snake Range décollement, a huge low-angle fault. Groundwater later dissolved passages in the marble and decorated them with stalactites, columns and rare shield formations.

What is the weather like on Wheeler Peak?

Wheeler Peak's summit is cold and windy even in summer, and thunderstorms often build by early afternoon. Snow can fall at any time of year, so start early and carry warm layers.

Why is Great Basin good for stargazing?

The park is remote, high and dry, far from major cities, which gives it some of the darkest night skies in the contiguous United States. Clear, moonless nights reveal the Milky Way in striking detail.

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Sources: www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · irmaservices.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · Official NPS site