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White Sands National Park

New Mexico · Established December 20, 2019

The world's largest gypsum dunefield, glittering white in the Chihuahuan Desert

Area: 146,344 acres
Established: December 20, 2019
Recreation visits: 659,742 / yr
State: New Mexico
Elevation range: About 3,887 to 4,116 ft (1,185 to 1,255 m)
Dunefield size: About 275 square miles, of which the park protects roughly 115 square miles

White Sands Weather Forecast

Loading the National Weather Service forecast for White Sands…

Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (32.779, -106.333). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.

Map of White Sands National Park

The Park

In the Tularosa Basin of southern New Mexico, a sea of white dunes rolls across the desert floor like a winter storm that never melts. These are not quartz sands but grains of gypsum, a mineral so soluble that rain usually carries it away to the sea. Here, in a basin with no outlet to the ocean, it has instead piled up into the largest gypsum dunefield on Earth, about 275 square miles in all, of which the park protects roughly 40 percent.

The brilliance of the sand has shaped the life that lives on it. Several lizards and the Apache pocket mouse have evolved pale, nearly white forms that vanish against the dunes, and plants such as the soaptree yucca race upward to stay ahead of the moving sand. Beneath the surface lie even older stories, including fossil footprints left by people and Ice Age animals along the shores of a long-vanished lake.

Geography

White Sands National Park lies in the Tularosa Basin, a broad desert valley between the San Andres Mountains to the west and the Sacramento Mountains to the east, at the northern edge of the Chihuahuan Desert. The park is almost entirely surrounded by White Sands Missile Range and Holloman Air Force Base.

The dunefield spreads northeast from its source area on the western side of the basin, where Alkali Flat and the seasonal playa of Lake Lucero hold gypsum-rich sediments. Prevailing southwest winds lift gypsum grains from these flats and sweep them into dunes that grow and migrate across the basin.

Relief in the park is modest, with elevations ranging from about 3,887 to 4,116 feet, but the landscape is anything but static. Dune shapes change from dome dunes near the upwind edge to crescent-shaped barchans and long transverse ridges in the heart of the field, with vegetated parabolic dunes around the margins.

Landmarks

Lake LuceroLakeA usually dry playa at the foot of the San Andres Mountains that fills after heavy rain, where gypsum crystallizes as the water evaporates.
Alkali Flat TrailDuneA backcountry loop that crosses the tallest dunes to the edge of Alkali Flat, the dry bed of an Ice Age lake.
Backcountry Camping LoopDuneA marked route into the interior dunes, where campers sleep among ridges of white gypsum.
Sunset Stroll areaDuneA meeting point for ranger-led walks when the low sun casts deep blue shadows across the sand.
Interdune BoardwalkAreaAn accessible boardwalk across a vegetated interdune flat where plants and lizards find footing between dunes.
Dune Life Nature TrailDuneA loop through the dunefield's vegetated edge, focused on animal tracks and desert adaptations.
Playa TrailAreaA short walk to a small playa that collects rainwater and gypsum crystals after storms.
Finding Footprints waysideAreaAn interpretive stop about the fossil footprints of people and Ice Age mammals preserved in the basin.

Geology

The gypsum of White Sands began in a warm, shallow Permian sea roughly 280 to 250 million years ago. As seawater evaporated in restricted basins, layers of gypsum and other minerals settled to the bottom, eventually becoming rock units such as the Yeso and San Andres formations that are now exposed in the surrounding mountains.

Much later, about 10 million years ago, the crust in this part of New Mexico began to stretch. The Tularosa Basin dropped down along north-south faults while the San Andres and Sacramento Mountains rose on either side, lifting those gypsum-bearing beds high above the valley floor. Rain and snowmelt then began dissolving gypsum from the mountains and carrying it into the basin, which has no drainage to the sea.

During the last Ice Age, a large lake called Lake Otero spread across about 1,600 square miles of the basin. As the climate warmed and the lake dried, it left behind gypsum-rich flats, including today's Alkali Flat and the playa of Lake Lucero, where evaporating water grows selenite crystals up to about three feet long. Wind and weather break these crystals into sand-sized grains.

Strong, persistent southwest winds carry the grains northeast, building the dunefield that exists today. Groundwater lying just a few feet below the surface keeps the base of the dunes damp, which helps hold the gypsum together. The most active dunes still move to the northeast by as much as 30 feet a year.

Deep time

About 280 to 250 million years agoA shallow Permian sea deposits layers of gypsum that become part of the Yeso and San Andres formations.
About 10 million years agoCrustal stretching drops the Tularosa Basin and raises the San Andres and Sacramento Mountains along faults.
Pleistocene Ice AgeLake Otero covers about 1,600 square miles of the Tularosa Basin, collecting dissolved gypsum.
About 23,000 to 21,000 years agoPeople walk the lake margins, leaving footprints alongside those of Ice Age animals such as mammoths and giant ground sloths.
End of the Ice AgeLake Otero dries, leaving Alkali Flat and Lake Lucero as gypsum-rich sources for the dunes.
TodayWinds from the southwest push the most active dunes northeast by up to 30 feet per year.

The rocks

Yeso FormationPermian
Gypsum-bearing marine beds exposed in the surrounding mountains, one of the ultimate sources of the dunefield's gypsum.
San Andres FormationPermian
Marine limestone and gypsum layers that help supply dissolved gypsum to the basin.
Lake Otero depositsPleistocene
Lakebed sediments of the Ice Age lake that once filled much of the Tularosa Basin.
Selenite crystals of Alkali Flat and Lake LuceroHolocene to present
Clear gypsum crystals, some up to about three feet long, that weather into sand-sized grains.
Gypsum dunesHolocene to present
Dome, barchan, transverse and parabolic dunes built by southwest winds from gypsum grains.

Trees, Plants & Ecosystems

300vascular plant species recorded

Active dunefieldHeart of the dunefield
Constantly shifting gypsum dunes support few plants, and animals here tend to be pale and nocturnal.
Interdune flatsLow, firm areas between dunes
Soil crusts, grasses and shrubs take hold in these sheltered corridors, feeding insects, lizards and small mammals.
Dunefield marginsEdges of the dunefield
Vegetated parabolic dunes and pedestals built by skunkbush sumac and other plants that trap sand around their roots.
Desert shrubland and grasslandOutside the dunes on the basin floor
Creosote bush, fourwing saltbush, mesquite and alkali sacaton typical of the Chihuahuan Desert.
Playas and alkali flatsLake Lucero and Alkali Flat on the west side
Seasonally flooded, salty basins where rainwater collects and evaporates, home to the park's only fish.

Trees

Rio Grande cottonwoodPopulus deltoidesOne of the very few trees in this nearly treeless landscape, able to tap shallow groundwater in interdune areas.
Honey mesquiteProsopis glandulosaA thorny shrub or small tree of the desert flats, its deep roots reaching far for water.
One-seed juniperJuniperus monospermaAn uncommon, drought-tolerant evergreen found at the edges of the park.
SaltcedarTamarix ramosissimaA nonnative, invasive tree that can crowd out native plants in wet, salty soils.

Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants

Soaptree yuccaYucca elataGrows its stem taller as sand piles up, keeping its leaves above the dunes; the park is otherwise almost treeless.
Skunkbush sumacRhus trilobataHolds sand in its roots, leaving tall pedestals behind when the dune moves on.
Hoary rosemary-mintPoliomintha incanaA fragrant, silvery shrub able to survive being partly buried by sand.
Giant dropseedSporobolus giganteusA tall bunchgrass that anchors sand on dune slopes.
Fourwing saltbushAtriplex canescensA salt-tolerant shrub with papery winged seeds, common around the dunefield.
Torrey's jointfirEphedra torreyanaA leafless, green-stemmed shrub of gypsum soils, sometimes called Mormon tea.
Pale evening primroseOenothera pallidaA gypsum-loving form that opens fragrant white flowers in the evening.
Narrowleaf sand verbenaAbronia angustifoliaClusters of pink-purple flowers on sandy flats after rain.
Rubber rabbitbrushEricameria nauseosaA yellow-flowering shrub that blooms in autumn.
Purple tiquiliaTiquilia hispidissimaA low, hairy plant with small purple flowers adapted to gypsum soils.
Alkali sacatonSporobolus airoidesA salt-tolerant bunchgrass of the basin's flats and playa margins.
Creosote bushLarrea tridentataThe signature shrub of the Chihuahuan Desert outside the dunes.
Claret cup cactusEchinocereus triglochidiatusBrilliant red flowers on rocky and gravelly ground in spring.

Wildlife

38mammals
151birds
28reptiles
7amphibians
1fish

Mammals

Apache pocket mouse (plains pocket mouse)Perognathus flavescensIts pale form blends into the gypsum, a textbook example of desert camouflage.
Kit foxVulpes macrotisA small, big-eared desert fox that hunts rodents at night.
CoyoteCanis latransTracks crisscross the dunes each morning.
American badgerTaxidea taxusDigs for rodents on the vegetated margins.
BobcatLynx rufusAn occasional predator on the dunefield edge.
Black-tailed jackrabbitLepus californicusLarge ears shed heat on hot days.
Desert cottontailSylvilagus auduboniiShelters in shrubs at the dunefield's edge.
Ord's kangaroo ratDipodomys ordiiHops through sandy areas at night and rarely needs to drink.
Silky pocket mousePerognathus flavusOne of the smallest rodents in North America, active at night.
Mearns's grasshopper mouseOnychomys arenicolaA predatory mouse that eats insects and even scorpions.
Southern plains woodratNeotoma micropusBuilds nests of sticks and yucca debris.
PronghornAntilocapra americanaSeen occasionally on the grasslands of the basin.
GemsbokOryx gazellaA nonnative African antelope introduced to the surrounding region that now wanders into the park.

Birds

Greater roadrunnerGeococcyx californianusRuns down lizards and insects on the dunefield edge.
Chihuahuan ravenCorvus cryptoleucusA desert raven, often in loose flocks over the basin.
Loggerhead shrikeLanius ludovicianusA predatory songbird that impales prey on thorns.
Scaled quailCallipepla squamataA cotton-topped quail of desert grasslands.
Burrowing owlAthene cuniculariaNests in burrows on open ground around the dunes.
Great horned owlBubo virginianusHunts rodents across the dunes at night.
Swainson's hawkButeo swainsoniA summer visitor that hunts insects and rodents.
American kestrelFalco sparveriusA small falcon hovering over open ground.
Lesser nighthawkChordeiles acutipennisFlutters low over the desert at dusk catching insects.
Black-throated sparrowAmphispiza bilineataA handsome desert sparrow that can survive without drinking water.
Cactus wrenCampylorhynchus brunneicapillusA large, loud wren nesting in yuccas and cacti.
Northern mockingbirdMimus polyglottosSings from the tops of soaptree yuccas.
Horned larkEremophila alpestrisA ground-dwelling songbird of open flats.
Sandhill craneGrus canadensisFlocks pass over the basin during migration.

Reptiles & amphibians

Bleached earless lizardHolbrookia maculataIts White Sands form is nearly white, a striking case of rapid adaptation to the gypsum.
Southwestern fence lizardSceloporus cowlesiAlso has a pale dune-dwelling form that differs from darker populations nearby.
Little striped whiptailAspidoscelis inornataA fast-moving lizard with a pale, blue-tinged dune form.
Texas horned lizardPhrynosoma cornutumA flat, spiny lizard that eats harvester ants.
Western diamond-backed rattlesnakeCrotalus atroxA large, venomous snake of the surrounding desert.
GophersnakePituophis cateniferA harmless rodent-hunter of sandy flats.
Couch's spadefootScaphiopus couchiiStays buried for months and emerges to breed in rain pools after summer storms.
Mexican spadefootSpea multiplicataBreeds explosively in temporary pools after monsoon rains.

Fish

White Sands pupfishCyprinodon tularosaThe only fish in the park and the only fish species endemic to the Tularosa Basin, living in salty springs and streams.

Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).

Climate & When to Visit

White Sands has a high-desert climate with hot summers, mild winters and large daily temperature swings. The white gypsum reflects sunlight and stays cooler to the touch than quartz sand, but air temperatures in summer can still soar; the record high is 111°F, set in June 1981, and the record low is -25°F, from January 1962.

Spring is the windy season, when strong southwest winds drive blowing sand and push the dunes northeast. Most rain arrives with summer monsoon thunderstorms, which can briefly fill Lake Lucero and other playas. Autumn is often the most pleasant season, with mild days and cool nights.

Spring
The windy season, with frequent gusty southwest winds, blowing gypsum and warming temperatures.
Summer
Very hot days and intense sun; afternoon monsoon thunderstorms bring lightning and short, heavy downpours.
Autumn
Very enjoyable, with mild daytime temperatures and cool nights; a good time for long hikes.
Winter
Mild days with cold evenings and occasional freezing nights; the white dunes can look like snow.

Weather hazards

Heat and dehydration: Carry at least a gallon of water per person per day and avoid hiking in the heat of summer afternoons.
Getting lost: Wind quickly erases footprints and dunes look alike, so follow trail markers closely and turn back if visibility drops.
Lightning: The open dunefield offers no shelter, so leave the dunes when thunderstorms approach.
Blowing sand: Spring windstorms can reduce visibility and sting eyes; sunglasses and a scarf help.
Missile range closures: The park and nearby highways can close temporarily for missile testing on the surrounding range; check before you go.

White Sands Questions

When is the best time to visit White Sands National Park?

Autumn and winter usually bring the most comfortable temperatures for exploring the dunes. Spring is windy, and summer is very hot with afternoon thunderstorms. Sunrise and sunset visits are beautiful in any season.

Why is the sand at White Sands white?

The dunes are made of gypsum, not quartz. Gypsum dissolves in water, so it normally washes to the sea, but the Tularosa Basin has no outlet. Dissolved gypsum collects in the basin, crystallizes as water evaporates, and wind breaks the crystals into white sand grains.

How do the White Sands dunes form and move?

Gypsum grains from Alkali Flat and Lake Lucero are carried northeast by prevailing southwest winds. The most active dunes migrate up to 30 feet per year, while dunes near the edges are held in place by plants.

What animals live at White Sands?

Many animals are nocturnal, so look for tracks in the morning. Some species, including the bleached earless lizard and the Apache pocket mouse, have evolved pale coloring that matches the white sand. The White Sands pupfish is the park's only fish.

What is the weather like at White Sands?

Summers are very hot with monsoon thunderstorms, spring is windy, autumn is mild, and winters are mild by day with cold nights. Temperatures have ranged from a record 111°F to -25°F.

Are there fossil footprints at White Sands?

Yes. The Tularosa Basin preserves footprints of people and Ice Age animals, and research has dated some human tracks to between about 21,000 and 23,000 years ago. The trackways are fragile and not open for visitors to explore on their own.

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Sources: home.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · home.nps.gov · geoinfo.nmt.edu · en.wikipedia.org · irmaservices.nps.gov · Official NPS site