National Parks › East › Virgin Islands
Virgin Islands National Park
U.S. Virgin Islands · Established August 2, 1956Coral gardens, dry tropical forest, and trade winds over St. John
- Area
- 15,052 acres
- Established
- August 2, 1956
- Recreation visits
- 471,074 / yr
- State
- U.S. Virgin Islands
- Highest point
- Bordeaux Mountain, 1,277 ft (389 m)
- Lowest point
- Sea level, Caribbean Sea
Virgin Islands Weather Forecast
Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (18.343, -64.742). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.
Map of Virgin Islands National Park
The Park
Virgin Islands National Park covers most of the island of St. John, a steep green mound rising from turquoise water in the eastern Caribbean. Its hills are wrapped in some of the largest and most intact dry tropical forest left in the Caribbean, its bays are fringed with white sand and mangroves, and coral reefs almost completely encircle its shores.
The park was established on August 2, 1956, largely through land donated by Laurance Rockefeller, and it now includes about 15,000 acres of land and surrounding sea, along with nearly all of Hassel Island in St. Thomas harbor. Beneath the forest canopy lie the ruins of sugar plantations worked by enslaved Africans and rock carvings left by the Taíno, while offshore, sea turtles graze seagrass meadows beside elkhorn and brain corals.
Geography
St. John lies just east of St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands. It is small but rugged, its ridges climbing steeply from the sea to Bordeaux Mountain, the island's summit at 1,277 feet. The north shore is scalloped into a chain of famous bays, Hawksnest, Trunk, Cinnamon, Maho, and Francis, while the drier, windward south and east coasts hold rocky headlands, salt ponds, and quieter coves.
Roughly two-thirds of the island lies within the park, and its boundary extends offshore to include nearshore reefs and seagrass beds. The adjoining Virgin Islands Coral Reef National Monument protects additional submerged lands farther out. Hassel Island, a separate unit in Charlotte Amalie harbor on St. Thomas, preserves military and maritime history.
Landmarks
- Bordeaux MountainPeak · 1,277 ftThe highest point on St. John, cloaked in the island's moistest forest.
- Caneel BayCoastA sheltered bay near Cruz Bay at the western edge of the park.
- Hawksnest BayCoastA calm north-shore bay with nearshore reefs close to the beach.
- Trunk BayCoastA celebrated white-sand beach with an underwater snorkel trail around Trunk Cay.
- Cinnamon BayCoastA long beach with a campground, sugar-estate ruins, and a small offshore cay.
- Whistling CayIslandA small, uninhabited cay off St. John's north shore.
- Maho BayCoastA shallow bay where green sea turtles graze on seagrass close to shore.
- Francis BayCoastA quiet bay backed by a salt pond that attracts wading birds.
- AnnabergAreaRuins of a sugar plantation with a windmill tower overlooking the channel.
- Waterlemon CayIslandA tiny cay in Leinster Bay ringed by reefs popular with snorkelers.
- Taíno PetroglyphsAreaAncient carvings beside a spring-fed pool on the Reef Bay Trail, where a seasonal cascade spills after rain.
- Reef BayCoastA south-shore bay at the end of the Reef Bay Trail near the ruins of a sugar factory.
- Great Lameshur BayCoastA remote south-shore bay long used for coral reef research.
- Salt PondLakeA hypersaline pond near the island's southeast tip, bordered by cactus scrub.
- Drunk BayCoastA wind-battered, rocky bay facing the trade winds on the island's southeastern tip.
- Hassel IslandIslandA separate park unit in St. Thomas harbor preserving forts and a historic marine railway.
Geology
St. John is the exposed summit of an ancient volcanic island arc. During the Cretaceous, lava and ash erupted beneath the sea as an oceanic plate was consumed at a subduction zone. The oldest rocks in the park, the Water Island Formation, record that submarine volcanism in keratophyre flows, pillow basalts, and tuffs built on oceanic crust.
Later eruptions shifted toward the andesites and basalts typical of a maturing island arc. They produced the Louisenhoj Formation, a thick, varied pile of volcanic breccia, tuff, and basalt with thin layers of shale, chert, and rare limestone that underlies much of the park. A thin band of marble, the Outer Brass Limestone, separates it from the younger volcanic and sedimentary rocks of the Tutu Formation exposed along the north coast.
Magma that stalled underground cooled into gabbro, diorite, and swarms of sheeted dikes of the Lameshur Volcanic-Intrusive Complex and related intrusive suites. Over tens of millions of years, tectonic forces tilted, faulted, and uplifted these rocks, and erosion carved the island's steep ridges and valleys.
The youngest chapter is being written now. Coral reefs grow on the submerged flanks of the island, waves grind shells and coral into white sand, beachrock cements along the shore, and salt ponds form where sandbars cut off shallow bays. The region remains seismically active, and earthquakes and tsunamis are a real, if infrequent, hazard.
Deep time
- Early CretaceousSubmarine eruptions on oceanic crust build the Water Island Formation, the oldest rocks on St. John.
- CretaceousAn evolving island arc deposits the thick volcanic breccias, tuffs, and basalts of the Louisenhoj Formation.
- CretaceousLimestone of the Outer Brass Limestone accumulates, followed by volcanic and sedimentary layers of the Tutu Formation.
- CretaceousMagma intrudes the volcanic pile as gabbro, diorite, and sheeted dikes of the Lameshur complex.
- CenozoicFaulting, tilting, and uplift raise the arc rocks above the sea, and erosion sculpts the island.
- QuaternaryReefs, beaches, beachrock, mangrove swamps, and salt ponds form along the modern coastline.
The rocks
- Water Island FormationEarly CretaceousKeratophyre flows, pillow basalt, and tuffs, the oldest rocks of the northern Virgin Islands.
- Louisenhoj FormationCretaceousVolcanic breccia, tuff, and basalt with minor shale, chert, and limestone underlying much of the park.
- Outer Brass LimestoneCretaceousA thin band of marble and calc-silicate rock separating older and younger volcanic units.
- Tutu FormationCretaceousMetavolcanic and metasedimentary rocks along the northern coastal part of the park.
- Lameshur Volcanic-Intrusive ComplexCretaceousGabbro, basalt, andesite, and sheeted dikes forming much of southern St. John.
- Quaternary depositsQuaternaryBeach sand, beachrock, swamp deposits, and alluvium along the shoreline and valley floors.
Trees, Plants & Ecosystems
- 711vascular plant species recorded
- Coral reefsNearshore to offshore watersFringing reefs built by star, brain, and finger corals nearly surround the island, though bleaching, disease, and hurricanes have taken a heavy toll.
- Seagrass bedsShallow sandy baysMeadows of turtle grass and manatee grass feed green sea turtles, conch, and juvenile fish.
- Mangroves and salt pondsSheltered shorelinesRed, black, and white mangroves stabilize shores and shelter young fish, while salt ponds host wading birds.
- Dry tropical forest and cactus scrubWindward south and east slopesAmong the largest and most intact dry forests remaining in the Caribbean, with Turk's cap cactus and tree cactus on the driest headlands.
- Moist forestUpper north slopes and Bordeaux MountainTaller, denser forest thrives where clouds and rain linger on the island's highest ground.
Trees
- Gumbo limboBursera simarubaKnown for its peeling red bark, a hallmark of the dry forest.
- Red mangroveRhizophora mangleArching prop roots create nursery habitat for fish in sheltered bays.
- Black mangroveAvicennia germinansSends up pencil-like breathing roots from waterlogged mud.
- White mangroveLaguncularia racemosaGrows on higher ground behind the red and black mangroves.
- ButtonwoodConocarpus erectusA salt-tolerant tree at the landward edge of mangrove swamps.
- Sea grapeCoccoloba uviferaRound leathery leaves and grape-like fruit line the beaches.
- ManchineelHippomane mancinellaA highly toxic beach tree; never touch it or shelter beneath it in rain.
- White cedarTabebuia heterophyllaA native tree with pink-to-white trumpet flowers.
- KapokCeiba pentandraA giant, buttressed tree whose seed pods release silky fibers.
- BulletwoodManilkara bidentataA hard-wooded tree of the moist upland forest.
- Water mampooPisonia subcordataA common tree of dry coastal forest with broad, pale leaves.
Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants
- Turk's cap cactusMelocactus intortusA barrel cactus crowned with a red, fuzzy cap on dry, rocky headlands.
- Royen's tree cactusPilosocereus royeniiA tall, columnar cactus of the driest coastal scrub.
- Century plantAgave missionumSends up a single towering flower stalk after years of growth.
- Erect prickly pearOpuntia strictaA spiny pad cactus of seaside thickets.
- Giant airplantTillandsia fasciculataAn epiphytic bromeliad perched on branches in the forest.
- Ball mossTillandsia recurvataA small, tufted bromeliad clinging to trees and wires.
- Turtle grassThalassia testudinumA flowering marine plant forming dense meadows in the bays.
- Manatee grassSyringodium filiformeA seagrass with cylindrical leaves, grazed by green sea turtles.
- Bay hopsIpomoea pes-capraeA beach morning glory whose runners help stabilize sand.
- Black caperCapparis cynophallophoraA shrub of the dry forest with showy, fragrant flowers.
- White stopperEugenia axillarisA common dry-forest shrub whose leaves smell faintly musky.
- Nosegay treePlumeria albaA wild frangipani with fragrant white flowers on dry, rocky slopes.
Wildlife
- 15mammals
- 173birds
- 16reptiles
- 7amphibians
Mammals
- Jamaican fruit batArtibeus jamaicensisBats are the only native land mammals on St. John, and this one disperses the seeds of many trees.
- Antillean fruit-eating batBrachyphylla cavernarumA cave-roosting bat that feeds on nectar, pollen, and fruit.
- Red fruit batStenoderma rufumA rare fruit bat of the northeastern Caribbean.
- Greater bulldog batNoctilio leporinusA fishing bat that rakes small fish from calm bays with its large feet.
- Pallas's mastiff batMolossus molossusAn insect-eating bat that hunts high over the forest at dusk.
- Small Indian mongooseHerpestes javanicusAn introduced predator that preys on ground-nesting birds, lizards, and turtle eggs.
- White-tailed deerOdocoileus virginianusIntroduced to the island and now browsing native forest plants.
- Feral goatCapra hircusNon-native grazers that damage the dry forest and cactus scrub.
- Feral donkeyEquus asinusDescendants of working animals that roam roads and beaches; do not feed them.
- Feral pigSus scrofaNon-native rooting animals that disturb soils and seedlings.
Birds
- Brown pelicanPelecanus occidentalisPlunge-dives for fish in the bays year-round.
- Magnificent frigatebirdFregata magnificensSoars effortlessly on long, angular wings over the coast.
- Brown boobySula leucogasterSkims low over the waves before diving for fish.
- White-tailed tropicbirdPhaethon lepturusTrails long white tail streamers as it nests on seaside cliffs.
- Royal ternSterna maximaA large orange-billed tern that perches on docks and buoys.
- BananaquitCoereba flaveolaA tiny yellow-and-black nectar feeder, the territory's official bird.
- Pearly-eyed thrasherMargarops fuscatusA bold, pale-eyed bird that raids nests and picnic tables.
- Green-throated caribEulampis holosericeusAn iridescent hummingbird of flowering shrubs and gardens.
- Antillean crested hummingbirdOrthorhyncus cristatusA tiny hummingbird with a glittering green crest.
- Lesser Antillean bullfinchLoxigilla noctisMales are black with a rufous throat; common around beaches.
- Zenaida doveZenaida auritaIts mournful cooing drifts through the dry forest.
- Bridled quail-doveGeotrygon mystaceaA shy ground dove of shaded moist forest.
- Mangrove cuckooCoccyzus minorA secretive cuckoo of mangroves and coastal thickets.
- OspreyPandion haliaetusHunts fish over the bays, especially in winter.
Reptiles & amphibians
- Hawksbill sea turtleEretmochelys imbricataA critically endangered turtle that feeds on sponges among the reefs and nests on park beaches.
- Green sea turtleChelonia mydasOften seen grazing seagrass in Maho and Francis bays.
- Leatherback sea turtleDermochelys coriaceaThe largest sea turtle, an occasional visitor to Virgin Islands waters.
- Green iguanaIguana iguanaSuns on branches and rocks near the shore.
- Crested anoleAnolis cristatellusMales flash a dewlap from tree trunks and walls.
- Puerto Rican ground lizardAmeiva exsulA fast, striped lizard foraging in leaf litter on sunny trails.
- Puerto Rican racerAlsophis portoricensisA slender, fast-moving snake of the forest floor that is seldom seen.
- Antillean coquiEleutherodactylus antillensisA tiny frog whose chirping chorus fills warm, humid nights.
Insects & other invertebrates
- Elkhorn coralAcropora palmataA once-dominant shallow reef builder with broad antler-like branches, now federally threatened.
- Staghorn coralAcropora cervicornisA fast-growing branching coral used in the park's reef restoration outplanting.
- Pillar coralDendrogyra cylindrusA rare coral that grows upright columns, severely affected by recent disease.
- Grooved brain coralDiploria labyrinthiformisA massive boulder coral patterned with deep, maze-like grooves.
- Boulder brain coralColpophyllia natansA large dome-shaped coral with broad meandering valleys.
- Mountainous star coralOrbicella faveolataA major framework builder of Caribbean reefs.
- Lobed star coralOrbicella annularisGrows in columns and lobes on shallow to mid-depth reefs.
- Mustard hill coralPorites astreoidesA hardy, yellow-brown mound coral common in shallow water.
- Branching fire coralMillepora alcicornisNot a true coral but a hydrozoan that stings on contact.
- Massive starlet coralSiderastrea sidereaA slow-growing, rounded coral found across the reefs.
Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).
Climate & When to Visit
St. John enjoys a warm tropical maritime climate in which temperatures change little through the year. The trade winds, blowing from east to west across the tropical Atlantic, dominate the weather almost every day, cooling the island and pushing passing showers across its ridges. Rain falls more readily on the higher, north-facing slopes, while the low, windward south and east ends of the island stay notably dry.
The year divides into a breezier, drier winter and a calmer, wetter summer and fall. Winter cold fronts far to the north can send "Christmas winds" and powerful swells onto north-facing beaches. In summer, tropical waves roll in from the east, sometimes carrying hazy African dust, and a few grow into tropical storms or hurricanes. Hurricanes Irma and Maria struck the island within two weeks of each other in September 2017, damaging forests, reefs, and park facilities.
- SpringTypically dry and sunny with steady trade winds and calm seas, one of the most pleasant times to snorkel.
- SummerWarmer, more humid, and wetter with lighter winds; tropical waves bring showers and occasional Saharan dust.
- AutumnThe peak of hurricane season and often the rainiest period, when the forest is at its greenest.
- WinterStronger trade winds, less rain, and periodic north swells that can make north-shore beaches rough.
- Hurricanes and tropical storms
- The Atlantic hurricane season runs from June through November; monitor forecasts closely and heed evacuation orders.
- Winter swells
- North swells from distant storms can create dangerous surf and currents on north-facing beaches.
- Rip currents
- Strong currents can form near reefs and channels; swim at calm, protected beaches and never alone.
- Sun and heat
- Intense tropical sun causes rapid sunburn and dehydration on exposed hikes and beaches.
- Manchineel trees
- Sap, fruit, and even rain dripping from this beach tree can burn skin and eyes.
- Coral and marine life
- Touching coral harms it and can cut you; watch for fire coral, sea urchins, and jellyfish.
Virgin Islands Questions
When is the best time to visit Virgin Islands National Park?
December through April brings the driest weather and steady trade winds, making it the most popular season. Late spring is also excellent, with calmer seas for snorkeling, while late summer and fall carry the greatest hurricane risk.
What is the weather like on St. John?
It is warm all year, with trade winds from the east nearly every day. Winters are breezier and drier, summers are calmer and wetter, and brief passing showers are common in any season.
Where is the best snorkeling in the park?
Trunk Bay's underwater trail, Waterlemon Cay in Leinster Bay, and the reefs of Hawksnest, Maho, and Salt Pond bays are favorites. Maho Bay is known for green sea turtles grazing in shallow seagrass.
What wildlife can I see in Virgin Islands National Park?
Sea turtles, reef fish, and corals are the highlights underwater, while pelicans, frigatebirds, bananaquits, and iguanas are easy to spot on land. Bats are the island's only native land mammals; deer, donkeys, and mongooses were introduced.
How did St. John form?
St. John is the eroded top of a Cretaceous volcanic island arc built by submarine eruptions and later uplifted. Its reefs, beaches, and salt ponds are much younger features shaped by modern coral growth and waves.
Why are the coral reefs at risk?
Warming seas cause coral bleaching, which leaves corals vulnerable to disease, and hurricanes, sediment, and anchors cause physical damage. The park monitors reefs and outplants corals such as staghorn to aid recovery.
What are the Taíno petroglyphs?
They are rock carvings left by the island's Indigenous Taíno people beside a freshwater pool along the Reef Bay Trail. The site is one of the park's most significant cultural landmarks.
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- Mammoth CaveKentucky
- New River GorgeWest Virginia
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Sources: www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · irmaservices.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · Official NPS site