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Channel Islands National Park

California · Established March 5, 1980

Five wild islands where California's past survives offshore

Area: 249,561 acres
Established: March 5, 1980
Recreation visits: 227,186 / yr
State: California
Highest point: Devils Peak, Santa Cruz Island, 2,429 ft (740 m)
Lowest point: Pacific Ocean, sea level

Channel Islands Weather Forecast

Loading the National Weather Service forecast for Channel Islands…

Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (33.987, -119.911). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.

Map of Channel Islands National Park

The Park

Just beyond the Santa Barbara Channel, a line of rugged islands rises from the Pacific, close enough to see from the mainland on a clear day yet worlds apart. Channel Islands National Park protects five of them: Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel and Santa Barbara, together with the surrounding ocean out to one nautical mile. Isolation has shaped everything here, from dwarf foxes found nowhere else to wildflowers that grow into small trees.

People have lived on these islands for at least 13,000 years, and the Chumash maintained villages on the northern islands for millennia. Anacapa and Santa Barbara islands were first protected as a national monument in 1938, and the park was established on March 5, 1980, the same year the surrounding national marine sanctuary was created. Today it is one of the least visited national parks in the continental United States, reachable only by boat or small plane, which is precisely why so much of old California endures here.

Geography

The four northern islands, Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa and San Miguel, form an east–west chain that is a seaward extension of the Santa Monica Mountains and part of California's Transverse Ranges. Tiny Santa Barbara Island lies far to the south, closer to Santa Catalina. Santa Cruz is the largest island in California, and The Nature Conservancy owns and manages about three-quarters of it, while the National Park Service manages the eastern end.

The islands vary remarkably. Anacapa is a slender, cliff-bound chain of three islets, crowned by a lighthouse. Santa Cruz rises highest, to 2,429 feet at Devils Peak, and is split by a long central valley. Santa Rosa has rolling grasslands, deep canyons and a rare grove of Torrey pines, while windswept San Miguel faces the full force of the open Pacific and hosts vast gatherings of seals and sea lions at Point Bennett.

Underwater, the park encompasses kelp forests, rocky reefs, sandy plains and sea caves. Cold, nutrient-rich water from the north meets warmer currents from the south around the islands, mixing species from two marine provinces in unusual abundance.

Landmarks

Santa Cruz IslandIslandCalifornia's largest island, home to the island scrub-jay and more than 100 sea caves.
Devils PeakPeak · 2,429 ftThe highest summit in the Channel Islands, rising above Santa Cruz's central valley.
Prisoners HarborCoastA north-shore landing on Santa Cruz at the mouth of a willow-lined creek.
Anacapa IslandIsland · 930 ftA narrow chain of three volcanic islets holding the largest brown pelican breeding colony in the United States.
Arch RockArchA 40-foot natural bridge off the tip of East Anacapa, the park's iconic landmark.
Santa Rosa IslandIslandGrasslands, canyons and white-sand beaches where a nearly complete pygmy mammoth skeleton was found.
Soledad PeakPeak · 1,589 ftSanta Rosa Island's high point, often wrapped in summer fog.
San Miguel IslandIsland · 831 ftThe westernmost and windiest island, with caliche forests and immense pinniped rookeries.
Cuyler HarborCoastA sweeping sandy bay that serves as the landing on San Miguel Island.
Point BennettCoastSan Miguel's western tip, one of the largest gathering places for seals and sea lions in the world.
Santa Barbara IslandIslandThe smallest island in the park, a steep-sided mesa ringed by seabird and sea lion colonies.
Signal PeakPeak · 634 ftThe summit of Santa Barbara Island, reached by a loop trail through giant coreopsis.

Geology

The Channel Islands record a long, restless history at the edge of the North American plate. Santa Cruz Island contains some of the oldest rocks in the park, Jurassic metamorphic and intrusive igneous rocks formed deep in an ancient subduction zone. Younger Eocene and Miocene sedimentary rocks, laid down in marine basins, make up much of Santa Rosa and San Miguel.

Between about 19 and 15 million years ago, as the boundary between the Pacific and North American plates reorganized, undersea volcanoes poured out lava, breccia and ash that now form much of Anacapa, Santa Barbara and northern Santa Cruz. During this same tectonic upheaval, the block of crust carrying the northern islands and the adjacent mainland rotated roughly 90 degrees, which is why the Transverse Ranges, unusually for California, run east to west.

Beginning a few million years ago, compression lifted the islands above the sea. Faults remain active: the Santa Cruz Island Fault slices lengthwise through that island, separating volcanic rock on the north from older rocks on the south. Waves working along fractured volcanic rock have carved more than 100 large sea caves on Santa Cruz alone, including Painted Cave, one of the largest known.

During the Ice Ages, sea level fell by hundreds of feet and the four northern islands merged into a single large island geologists call Santarosae. Columbian mammoths swam across the narrowed channel and, isolated there, dwarfed into the pygmy mammoth. Rising seas at the end of the last glaciation broke Santarosae apart, leaving the islands we see today, fringed by wave-cut marine terraces that record earlier sea levels.

Deep time

Jurassic PeriodMetamorphic and intrusive igneous rocks, now exposed on Santa Cruz Island, form in an ancient subduction zone.
Late Cretaceous to EoceneMarine sediments that will build much of San Miguel and Santa Rosa accumulate offshore.
About 19–15 million years agoSubmarine volcanic eruptions lay down the lava and breccia of Anacapa, Santa Barbara and northern Santa Cruz.
MioceneThe crustal block holding the northern islands rotates roughly 90 degrees as plate motions change.
About 5 million years agoTectonic compression begins lifting the islands above sea level.
Pleistocene Ice AgesLow sea levels join the northern islands into Santarosae, where mammoths dwarf into a pygmy species.
About 11,000 years agoRising post-glacial seas split Santarosae into separate islands.

The rocks

Jurassic metamorphic and plutonic basementJurassic
The oldest rocks in the park, schist and intrusive igneous rock exposed south of the Santa Cruz Island Fault.
Santa Cruz Island VolcanicsMiocene
Thick submarine lava flows and breccias forming the rugged north side of Santa Cruz.
San Miguel VolcanicsMiocene, about 18–17 million years
Basalt and andesite flows exposed on San Miguel Island.
Monterey FormationMiocene
Siliceous marine shale rich in microfossils, exposed on the eastern end of Santa Cruz.
Santa Cruz Island FaultActive
A major east–west fault that carves the island's central valley.
Marine terracesPleistocene
Flat benches cut by waves at former sea levels and later uplifted.
Caliche forestsLate Pleistocene to Holocene
Ghostly casts of ancient plant roots and stems formed from calcium carbonate on San Miguel and Santa Rosa.

Trees, Plants & Ecosystems

810vascular plant species recorded

Kelp forestNearshore ocean to about 100 ft deep
Towering giant kelp shelters garibaldi, sheephead, sea urchins and hundreds of other species.
Rocky intertidalShoreline
Tidepools of anemones, sea stars, mussels and chitons exposed twice daily.
Sandy beaches and rookeriesCoastline
Haul-out and breeding grounds for elephant seals, sea lions and harbor seals, especially on San Miguel.
Coastal sage and island scrubSea level to about 1,000 ft
Giant coreopsis, buckwheats, lemonade berry and prickly pear on dry, windy slopes.
Island grasslandTerraces and mesas
Once heavily grazed by ranch animals and now recovering with native bunchgrasses.
Island woodlandCanyons and north slopes
Island oak, Catalina ironwood, bishop pine and the rare Torrey pine grove of Santa Rosa.

Trees

Torrey pinePinus torreyanaOne of the rarest pines in the world; a distinct island subspecies grows only on Santa Rosa.
Island ironwoodLyonothamnus floribundusA relict tree surviving only on the California islands, known from mainland fossils.
Island oakQuercus tomentellaAn island endemic oak growing in groves in sheltered canyons.
Island scrub oakQuercus pacificaA shrubby oak endemic to the Channel Islands, recovering since grazing animals were removed.
Bishop pinePinus muricataClosed-cone pines form fog-fed stands on the north side of Santa Cruz.
Coast live oakQuercus agrifoliaA mainland evergreen oak that grows in the larger island canyons.
ToyonHeteromeles arbutifoliaA shrub or small tree whose red winter berries feed island birds.
Hollyleaf cherryPrunus ilicifoliaThe island form, Catalina cherry, grows into a handsome small tree.

Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants

Giant coreopsisCoreopsis giganteaA tree-like sunflower that bursts into yellow bloom in late winter, painting Anacapa and Santa Barbara gold.
Island live-foreverDudleya greeneiA succulent rosette clinging to island cliffs.
St. Catherine's laceEriogonum giganteumA large buckwheat with lacy white flower clusters.
Santa Cruz Island buckwheatEriogonum arborescensA shrubby buckwheat of the northern islands, valuable to pollinators.
Island manzanitaArctostaphylos insularisA red-barked shrub found only on Santa Cruz Island.
Island tree poppyDendromecon harfordiiA shrubby poppy with glossy leaves and bright yellow flowers.
Coast prickly pearOpuntia littoralisSpread widely on overgrazed slopes and now provides cover for island wildlife.
California sagebrushArtemisia californicaA fragrant gray shrub of the coastal sage scrub.
Black sageSalvia melliferaA nectar-rich sage buzzing with bees in spring.
Silver bush lupineLupinus albifronsSilvery foliage and purple flower spikes on sandy slopes.
Coyote brushBaccharis pilularisA tough evergreen shrub that colonizes former grazing land.
Chaparral mallowMalacothamnus fasciculatusPink hollyhock-like flowers on dry island hillsides.

Wildlife

42mammals
354birds
10reptiles
3amphibians
256fish

Mammals

Island foxUrocyon littoralisA house-cat-sized fox found only on six Channel Islands, each with its own subspecies; it rebounded from near-extinction in the early 2000s.
Deer mousePeromyscus maniculatusEach island has its own distinct subspecies of this small rodent.
Island spotted skunkSpilogale gracilisA small, nocturnal skunk subspecies found only on Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa.
California sea lionZalophus californianusNoisy colonies breed on San Miguel and Santa Barbara islands.
Northern elephant sealMirounga angustirostrisMassive males battle for mates on San Miguel's beaches in winter.
Northern fur sealCallorhinus ursinusBreeds at San Miguel, one of its few rookeries south of Alaska.
Harbor sealPhoca vitulinaHauls out on quiet beaches and rocky ledges around all the islands.
Blue whaleBalaenoptera musculusThe largest animal on Earth feeds on krill in the channel in summer.
Humpback whaleMegaptera novaeangliaeOften seen lunge-feeding and breaching in summer and fall.
Gray whaleEschrichtius robustusMigrates through the channel between Alaska and Baja California in winter and spring.
Common dolphinDelphinus delphisHuge pods race alongside island ferries.
Southern sea otterEnhydra lutrisOnce hunted out of the islands, it is still only an occasional visitor.

Birds

Island scrub-jayAphelocoma insularisA bold blue jay found only on Santa Cruz Island, larger and brighter than its mainland kin.
Brown pelicanPelecanus occidentalisAnacapa and Santa Barbara hold the principal breeding colonies of the California brown pelican in the United States.
Western gullLarus occidentalisAnacapa hosts the largest breeding colony of this gull in the world.
Scripps's murreletSynthliboramphus hypoleucusA small seabird that nests in crevices on Santa Barbara and Anacapa, its chicks leaving for sea within days of hatching.
Cassin's aukletPtychoramphus aleuticusBurrows into island soils and visits its nest only at night.
Ashy storm-petrelOceanodroma homochroaA rare, sooty seabird nesting in sea caves and rock crevices.
Brandt's cormorantPhalacrocorax penicillatusNests in dense colonies on flat island tops.
Pigeon guillemotCepphus columbaNests in cliff crevices and shows off bright red feet.
Black oystercatcherHaematopus bachmaniA loud, red-billed shorebird of rocky shores.
Peregrine falconFalco peregrinusHas returned to nest on island cliffs after decades of absence.
Horned larkEremophila alpestrisAn island subspecies nests in the open grasslands.

Reptiles & amphibians

Island night lizardXantusia riversianaA slow-maturing lizard that lives only on a few southern islands, including Santa Barbara, and can live for decades.
Southern alligator lizardElgaria multicarinataA long-tailed lizard of grasslands and scrub on the northern islands.
Island fence lizardSceloporus occidentalisAn island subspecies of the familiar western fence lizard.
Santa Cruz Island gopher snakePituophis cateniferA dwarf subspecies of gopher snake found on Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa.
Pacific slender salamanderBatrachoseps pacificusA worm-like, lungless salamander of damp island soils.
Pacific treefrogHyla regillaThe islands' only frog, calling from creeks and seasonal ponds.

Fish

GaribaldiHypsypops rubicundusCalifornia's brilliant orange state marine fish, defending territories on rocky reefs.
California sheepheadSemicossyphus pulcherA wrasse that begins life female and may transform into a male; it helps control sea urchins.
Kelp bassParalabrax clathratusA mottled predator hovering among kelp stalks.
OpaleyeGirella nigricansAn algae-grazing fish common in shallow surge zones.
HalfmoonMedialuna californiensisA blue-gray schooling fish of kelp canopies.
Giant sea bassStereolepis gigasA critically imperiled giant that can exceed 500 pounds and is returning to island reefs.
Horn sharkHeterodontus francisciA small, nocturnal shark that lays corkscrew-shaped egg cases.
Blue rockfishSebastes mystinusSchools in midwater above rocky reefs.
Bat rayMyliobatis californicaGlides over sandy bottoms digging for clams.
Ocean sunfishMola molaThe world's heaviest bony fish, often seen basking at the surface offshore.

Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).

Climate & When to Visit

The islands share a Mediterranean climate moderated by the surrounding ocean. Temperatures are remarkably steady through the year, with highs typically in the mid-60s °F and lows in the low 50s °F. Almost all rain falls between November and March, when Pacific storms sweep through, and summers are dry but often cool and foggy, especially on the western islands.

Wind is the defining weather factor. Strong northwesterly winds funnel down the coast and across the islands, strongest in spring and on exposed San Miguel and Santa Rosa, whipping up large swells in the channel. Conditions can differ dramatically from island to island and hour to hour, and boat trips and landings are frequently cancelled for high seas even when the mainland is calm.

Spring
Green hills and wildflowers peak, giant coreopsis blooms, and gray whales and seabird nesting are underway, though winds are often strongest.
Summer
Dry and mild with frequent morning fog, calmer seas and warmer water for kayaking and snorkeling; blue and humpback whales feed offshore.
Autumn
Often the clearest, calmest weather of the year, with the warmest ocean temperatures and excellent underwater visibility.
Winter
Rainy spells alternate with crisp, clear days; elephant seals breed on San Miguel and gray whales migrate south.

Weather hazards

High winds and seas: Check marine forecasts, expect boat cancellations and secure tents and gear against strong gusts.
Sea cave dangers: Only enter sea caves with a guide in calm conditions, as swells can surge suddenly inside.
Fog: Dense fog can roll in quickly, obscuring trails, cliff edges and navigation on the water.
Cliff edges: Island bluffs are high and crumbly; stay on trails and well back from the edge.
Self-reliance: There are no services or stores on the islands, so bring all food, water and layers you need.

Channel Islands Questions

When is the best time to visit Channel Islands National Park?

Late summer and fall usually bring the calmest seas, warmest water and clearest days for boating, snorkeling and kayaking. Spring is best for wildflowers and green hills but tends to be windier.

How do you get to Channel Islands National Park?

The islands are reached by concession boat from Ventura or Oxnard harbors or by small plane to Santa Rosa Island. Trips depend on weather and sea conditions and should be booked in advance.

What is the weather like on the Channel Islands?

Temperatures are mild all year, with highs mostly in the 60s °F, but strong winds, fog and rough seas are common. Conditions often differ greatly from the mainland, so pack wind layers and check the marine forecast.

What animals live only on the Channel Islands?

The island fox, the island scrub-jay of Santa Cruz Island, the island spotted skunk and the island night lizard are among the endemic animals. Many plants, such as island ironwood and island oak, are also found only on California's islands.

What was Santarosae?

During the last Ice Age, lower sea levels joined the four northern islands into one large island called Santarosae. Mammoths reached it from the mainland and evolved into the pygmy mammoth, whose remains have been found on several of the islands.

Where can you see whales in the park?

Gray whales pass through the channel roughly from December to April, while blue and humpback whales feed there from summer into early fall. The boat ride between the mainland and the islands is often the best viewing platform.

More parks in the Pacific West

← Carlsbad Caverns National Park Congaree National Park →

Sources: www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · irmaservices.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · en.wikipedia.org · en.wikipedia.org · en.wikipedia.org · Official NPS site