Olympic National Park

Washington · Established June 29, 1938

Glaciers, rainforest, and wild coast on one uplifted slab of ancient seafloor

Area: 922,649 acres
Established: June 29, 1938
Recreation visits: 3,584,187 / yr
State: Washington
Highest point: Mount Olympus, 7,980 ft (2,432 m)
Lowest point: Sea level, Pacific coast

Olympic Weather Forecast

Loading the National Weather Service forecast for Olympic…

Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (47.804, -123.666). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.

Map of Olympic National Park

The Park

Olympic National Park holds three parks in one. At its center rise the Olympic Mountains, a glacier-capped dome of peaks crowned by Mount Olympus. On their western flank grow temperate rainforests, where Sitka spruce and western hemlock stand in cathedral-like groves draped with moss. Along the Pacific edge runs more than 70 miles of wild coastline, with sea stacks, tide pools, and driftwood-strewn beaches.

Isolation has made the peninsula a biological island, home to plants and animals found nowhere else, such as the Olympic marmot. The park was established on June 29, 1938, and is also a World Heritage Site and International Biosphere Reserve, recognized for this rare combination of ecosystems.

Geography

The park covers 922,649 acres of Washington's Olympic Peninsula, surrounded by the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the north, and Puget Sound's Hood Canal to the east. The mountainous core forms a nearly circular block, and rivers such as the Elwha, Hoh, Queets, Quinault, Sol Duc, and Dosewallips drain outward from it in every direction. A separate coastal strip protects the wilderness shore from near Cape Alava south to the Kalaloch area.

Few places show such extreme contrasts over short distances. The western valleys are among the wettest places in the contiguous United States, while the northeastern side of the range lies in a rain shadow. Elevation climbs from sea level to 7,980 feet at Mount Olympus in about 30 miles, and roads enter the park only around its edges, leaving the interior as wilderness.

Landmarks

Mount OlympusPeak · 7,980 ftThe highest and most heavily glaciated peak in the Olympics, surrounded by the Blue, Hoh, Humes, and other glaciers.
Blue GlacierGlacierThe largest glacier in the Olympic Mountains, flowing north from Mount Olympus and steadily shrinking.
Hoh Rain ForestAreaA moss-hung temperate rainforest receiving about 140 inches of precipitation a year.
Lake CrescentLakeA deep, clear lake carved by glaciers in the park's northern foothills.
Sol Duc FallsWaterfallThe Sol Duc River splits and plunges into a narrow, fern-lined slot canyon.
Rialto BeachCoastA cobble beach with giant driftwood, sea stacks, and the Hole-in-the-Wall arch to the north.
Ruby BeachCoastA photogenic beach with sea stacks near the mouth of Cedar Creek.
Point of the ArchesCoastA line of arches and sea stacks at the park's northern coastal tip.
Cape AlavaCoastThe westernmost point of the contiguous United States, near an important Makah village site.
Ozette LakeLakeA large lowland lake just inland from the wilderness coast.
Lake QuinaultLakeA glacial lake at the edge of the park beside the Quinault Rain Forest.
StaircaseValleyA forested entrance on the North Fork Skokomish River in the park's southeast.
Deer ParkAreaA high ridge-top campground in the drier northeastern Olympics, reached by a steep gravel road.

Geology

The Olympic Mountains are made almost entirely of rock that formed beneath the sea. Roughly 57 to 18 million years ago, sediments and lavas accumulated offshore of the ancient continent. The oldest of these are the Crescent Formation basalts, erupted in the early to middle Eocene as submarine lavas that now form a horseshoe of ridges around the northern, eastern, and southern edges of the range. Pillow shapes in these rocks record their underwater origin.

Starting about 34 million years ago, the Juan de Fuca Plate began to sink beneath North America. As it descended, sediments on the seafloor were scraped off and stacked against the continent like snow in front of a plow. This crumpled, deformed mass is the Olympic subduction complex, and it forms the rugged core of the mountains. The Crescent basalts were bent upward around the complex, which explains the range's unusual horseshoe-shaped geology. Uplift continues today as subduction proceeds.

Ice then sculpted the modern landscape. During the last ice age, the Cordilleran Ice Sheet advanced about 16,900 years ago and covered the northern and eastern lowlands to a thickness of roughly 3,500 feet before retreating around 14,000 years ago. Mountain glaciers carved U-shaped valleys and basins like Lake Crescent, and dozens of glaciers remain on the high peaks, though they are shrinking. Along the coast, waves erode softer mudstone and leave harder rock standing as sea stacks, such as those of the Hoh rock assemblage.

Deep time

Early to middle EoceneSubmarine basalts of the Crescent Formation erupt on the seafloor offshore.
About 57 to 18 million years agoMarine sediments and volcanic rocks accumulate offshore, later forming most of the Olympic Mountains.
About 34 million years agoSubduction of the Juan de Fuca Plate begins to scrape sediments into the Olympic subduction complex.
Miocene to presentContinued subduction uplifts, folds, and erodes the Olympic Mountains.
About 16,900 years agoThe Cordilleran Ice Sheet advances into the lowlands around the peninsula.
About 14,000 years agoThe ice sheet retreats, leaving glacially carved valleys and lakes such as Lake Crescent.
2011 to 2014The Elwha and Glines Canyon dams are removed, and the Elwha River begins rebuilding its natural channel and delta.

The rocks

Crescent FormationEarly to middle Eocene
Thick submarine basalt flows forming a horseshoe of ridges around the range.
Olympic subduction complexEocene to Oligocene
Deformed marine sandstones, shales, and mélange scraped off the subducting plate, making up the mountain core.
Hoh rock assemblageTertiary
Sheared sedimentary rocks exposed along the coast, where harder blocks stand as sea stacks.
Twin River GroupEocene to Oligocene
Marine sedimentary rocks of the peripheral terrane on the peninsula's north side.
Glacial depositsPleistocene
Moraines, outwash, and erratic boulders left by mountain glaciers and the Cordilleran Ice Sheet.

Trees, Plants & Ecosystems

872vascular plant species recorded

Pacific coastSea level
Rocky headlands, sea stacks, tide pools, and beaches support sea stars, seabirds, and marine mammals.
Temperate rainforestSea level to about 1,000 ft
In the Hoh, Queets, and Quinault valleys, huge Sitka spruce and western hemlock rise above moss, ferns, and nurse logs.
Lowland and montane forestAbout 1,000–4,000 ft
Douglas-fir, western hemlock, western redcedar, and Pacific silver fir dominate slopes throughout the park.
Subalpine forest and meadowsAbout 4,000–6,000 ft
Subalpine fir and mountain hemlock clusters give way to wildflower meadows, as at Hurricane Ridge.
Alpine rock and glaciersAbove about 6,000 ft
Glaciers, rock, and cushion plants include several flowers found only in the Olympics.

Trees

Sitka sprucePicea sitchensisThe giant of the coastal rainforest, rarely growing far from ocean fog.
Western hemlockTsuga heterophyllaOften begins life on a fallen nurse log in the rainforest.
Western redcedarThuja plicataMassive old trees with fibrous bark valued by coastal peoples.
Douglas-firPseudotsuga menziesiiA tall conifer dominating the drier eastern and northern forests.
Bigleaf mapleAcer macrophyllumIts moss-covered limbs create the iconic look of the Hall of Mosses.
Pacific silver firAbies amabilisCommon in the snowy montane forest.
Mountain hemlockTsuga mertensianaGrows near timberline in heavy snow areas.
Subalpine firAbies lasiocarpaForms spire-shaped clumps in the high meadows.
Alaska yellow-cedarChamaecyparis nootkatensisA slow-growing cedar of wet, high-elevation slopes.
Red alderAlnus rubraA pioneer tree of river bars and disturbed ground, enriching the soil with nitrogen.
Pacific yewTaxus brevifoliaA small, shade-loving understory conifer.
Black cottonwoodPopulus balsamiferaA fast-growing tree of river floodplains.

Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants

Western sword fernPolystichum munitumThe most abundant fern on the rainforest floor.
Licorice fernPolypodium glycyrrhizaGrows high on moss-covered maple branches.
Deer fernBlechnum spicantA small evergreen fern of damp forest.
Redwood sorrelOxalis oreganaClover-like leaves carpeting shady forest floors.
SalalGaultheria shallonA thick evergreen shrub near the coast with dark edible berries.
Devil's clubOplopanax horridusA spiny shrub with huge leaves in wet ravines.
American skunk cabbageLysichiton americanusBright yellow spathes in swampy spots in spring.
Piper's bellflowerCampanula piperiA blue alpine flower found only in the Olympic Mountains.
Flett's violetViola flettiiA pink-purple violet of high rock crevices found only in the Olympics.
Olympic Mountain synthyrisSynthyris pinnatifidaA blue-flowered alpine plant; the variety here grows only in the Olympics.
Avalanche lilyErythronium montanumWhite lilies blooming along melting snowbanks in subalpine meadows.
Subalpine lupineLupinus arcticusBlue lupines filling the meadows at Hurricane Ridge.
Magenta paintbrushCastilleja parvifloraThe Olympic variety of this paintbrush brightens high meadows.
SalmonberryRubus spectabilisAn early-blooming shrub with orange berries along streams.

Wildlife

67mammals
249birds
5reptiles
13amphibians
85fish

Mammals

Roosevelt elkCervus elaphusThe park protects a large wild population of this subspecies, which helps shape the rainforest.
Olympic marmotMarmota olympusFound nowhere else on Earth, living in the high meadows.
Black-tailed deerOdocoileus hemionusCommonly seen in meadows and forests.
American black bearUrsus americanusForages in subalpine meadows and along rivers.
CougarPuma concolorPresent throughout the park but rarely seen.
Mountain goatOreamnos americanusNot native to the peninsula, goats were introduced in the 1920s and many have since been relocated.
FisherPekania pennantiReturned to the Olympic Peninsula through reintroduction after disappearing from Washington.
Olympic chipmunkTamias amoenusA subspecies of the yellow-pine chipmunk found in the Olympics.
Douglas squirrelTamiasciurus douglasiiA noisy conifer squirrel.
Mountain beaverAplodontia rufaA primitive, burrowing rodent of moist forests.
River otterLontra canadensisSeen along rivers, lakes, and coastal waters.
Sea otterEnhydra lutrisFloats in kelp beds off the northern coast.
Harbor sealPhoca vitulinaHauls out on rocks and islands along the coast.
Steller sea lionEumetopias jubatusRests on offshore rocks.

Birds

Bald eagleHaliaeetus leucocephalusPerches on sea stacks and riverside snags.
Marbled murreletBrachyramphus marmoratusA threatened seabird that nests in old-growth trees.
Northern spotted owlStrix occidentalisA threatened owl of old-growth forests.
Tufted puffinFratercula cirrhataNests on offshore islands along the coast.
Common murreUria aalgeGathers in large colonies on offshore rocks.
Pigeon guillemotCepphus columbaA black seabird with red feet, often seen near rocky shores.
Black oystercatcherHaematopus bachmaniA loud shorebird foraging on intertidal rocks.
Harlequin duckHistrionicus histrionicusBreeds on mountain rivers and winters on rocky coasts.
American dipperCinclus mexicanusDives in fast-flowing streams.
Varied thrushIxoreus naeviusIts eerie whistle is common in the rainforest.
Pileated woodpeckerDryocopus pileatusA large woodpecker of old forests.
Sooty grouseDendragapus fuliginosusOften seen along subalpine trails.
Gray jayPerisoreus canadensisA bold jay of the high forest.
Steller's jayCyanocitta stelleriA common, crested blue jay.

Reptiles & amphibians

Olympic torrent salamanderRhyacotriton olympicusA small salamander of cold seeps and streams, endemic to the Olympic Peninsula.
Coastal tailed frogAscaphus trueiLives in cold, fast mountain streams.
Rough-skinned newtTaricha granulosaA common, toxic newt of ponds and forests.
Northern red-legged frogRana auroraA lowland frog of ponds and wetlands.
Western toadAnaxyrus boreasBreeds in shallow waters.
EnsatinaEnsatina eschscholtziiA lungless salamander of moist forest floors.
Northwestern garter snakeThamnophis ordinoidesA small snake of forest clearings.
Northern alligator lizardElgaria coeruleaOne of the park's few lizards.

Fish

Chinook salmonOncorhynchus tshawytschaOnce famous for huge runs in the Elwha, now recovering after dam removal.
Coho salmonOncorhynchus kisutchSpawns in rainforest streams in autumn.
Sockeye salmonOncorhynchus nerkaRuns into Lake Ozette and Lake Quinault.
SteelheadOncorhynchus mykissSea-run rainbow trout of the park's coastal rivers.
Bull troutSalvelinus confluentusA threatened native char.
Cutthroat troutOncorhynchus clarkiiA native trout of streams and lakes, including the distinctive Crescenti trout of Lake Crescent.
Olympic mudminnowNovumbra hubbsiA small fish of lowland wetlands found only in western Washington.
Tidepool sculpinOligocottus maculosusA camouflaged fish of coastal tide pools.

Insects & other invertebrates

Western bumble beeBombus occidentalisA once-common bumble bee that has declined across its range.
Olympic arcticOeneis chryxusA butterfly of high, rocky meadows represented here by a subspecies named for the Olympics.
Mariposa copperLycaena mariposaA small copper butterfly of bogs and meadows.
Yellow-faced bumble beeBombus vosnesenskiiA common pollinator of lowland and coastal flowers.

Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).

Climate & When to Visit

Olympic's weather is dominated by the Pacific Ocean. From autumn through spring, storms roll in off the sea and rise against the mountains, dropping heavy rain in the western valleys and deep snow on the peaks. The Hoh Rain Forest averages about 140 inches of precipitation a year, and even more falls on Mount Olympus, feeding its glaciers. The northeastern side of the range lies in a rain shadow and is much drier.

Summers are relatively dry and pleasant, with highs typically in the 65–75°F range, and July through September are the driest months. Lowland winters are mild, but snow piles up in the mountains, and it is common for coastal fog, rainforest drizzle, and subalpine sun to exist in different parts of the park at the same time. Visitors should be ready for many kinds of weather in a single day.

Spring
Cool and showery; the rainforests are lush, rivers run high with snowmelt, and snow persists above about 4,000 feet.
Summer
The driest, sunniest season, with highs mostly from 65 to 75°F; high trails open as snow melts and meadows bloom in July and August.
Autumn
September is often still dry, then rains return in October; salmon run upriver and elk bugle in the valleys.
Winter
Heavy rain soaks the lowlands and coast, powerful storms bring big surf, and deep snow falls in the mountains.

Weather hazards

Tides and surf: Carry a tide table on coastal hikes, since rising water can trap hikers against headlands.
Drifting logs: Waves can roll huge beached logs without warning, so stay off driftwood near the surf.
Hypothermia: Cold rain and wind make hypothermia a risk even when temperatures seem mild.
River crossings: Rivers rise quickly with rain and snowmelt and can be dangerous to ford.
Winter storms and road closures: Snow and fallen trees frequently close mountain roads such as the one to Hurricane Ridge.

Olympic Questions

When is the best time to visit Olympic National Park?

July through September offers the driest weather, open mountain roads, and blooming subalpine meadows. The rainforests are beautiful year-round, and winter brings dramatic storms to the coast.

How much rain does the Hoh Rain Forest get?

The Hoh averages about 140 inches of precipitation a year, making it one of the wettest places in the contiguous United States. Most of it falls between October and April.

How were the Olympic Mountains formed?

They are made largely of seafloor rocks and sediments that were scraped off as the Juan de Fuca Plate slid beneath North America, then uplifted and folded. Glaciers later carved the peaks and valleys.

What animals are unique to Olympic National Park?

Because the peninsula is isolated, it has species found nowhere else, including the Olympic marmot, the Olympic torrent salamander, and plants such as Piper's bellflower and Flett's violet.

Where is the best place to see wildlife?

Look for Roosevelt elk in the Hoh and Quinault valleys, marmots and black-tailed deer in the high meadows, and seabirds, seals, and sea otters along the coast.

What happened on the Elwha River?

Between 2011 and 2014, two large dams on the Elwha were removed in the largest dam removal project in U.S. history. Salmon have returned to upstream areas that were blocked for about a century.

More parks in the Pacific West

← North Cascades National Park Petrified Forest National Park →

Sources: www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · irmaservices.nps.gov · Official NPS site