National Parks › Pacific West › North Cascades

North Cascades National Park

Washington · Established October 2, 1968

Hundreds of glaciers and a sea of jagged peaks in the American Alps

Area: 504,781 acres
Established: October 2, 1968
Recreation visits: 46,925 / yr
State: Washington
Highest point: Goode Mountain, 9,220 ft (2,810 m)
Lowest point: Western valley floors, about 400 ft (120 m)

North Cascades Weather Forecast

Loading the National Weather Service forecast for North Cascades…

Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (48.712, -121.207). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.

Map of North Cascades National Park

The Park

The North Cascades are the most rugged mountains in the contiguous United States, a crowded skyline of hanging glaciers, knife-edge ridges, and valleys so steep that the forest floor seems to tip toward the sky. The national park, established October 2, 1968, protects the wildest core of that range just south of the Canadian border, and together with the Ross Lake and Lake Chelan national recreation areas it forms a single, largely roadless wilderness complex.

Few people reach the park's interior, which is part of its magic. The North Cascades Highway skirts it along the Skagit River, offering views of emerald reservoirs and ice-draped summits, while the rest belongs to hikers, climbers, and the mountain goats, pikas, and marmots that live among the peaks. More glaciers crown these mountains than any other park outside Alaska.

Geography

North Cascades National Park is split into a north unit and a south unit by the Skagit River corridor and Ross Lake National Recreation Area, where Seattle City Light's dams hold back Ross, Diablo, and Gorge lakes. The north unit takes in the Picket Range and the flanks of Mount Shuksan; the south unit holds Eldorado Peak, Cascade Pass, and the park's highest summit, Goode Mountain. At its southeastern tip the park reaches down toward the village of Stehekin at the head of Lake Chelan.

Vertical relief approaches 9,000 feet, from valley floors only a few hundred feet above sea level to glaciated summits over 9,000 feet. The Cascade crest runs through the park and divides it into two worlds: a west side drenched by Pacific storms and cloaked in temperate rainforest, and an east side in the rain shadow where ponderosa pine and sunflower-like balsamroot grow on dry slopes. Over 500 lakes and ponds dot the high country.

Landmarks

Goode MountainPeak · 9,220 ftThe highest summit in the park, a remote glaciated tower near the head of the Stehekin valley.
Mount ShuksanPeak · 9,131 ftOne of the most photographed mountains in North America, built of green metamorphic schist and draped with hanging glaciers.
Eldorado PeakPeak · 8,868 ftA classic snowy summit ridge rising above a broad ice cap west of Cascade Pass.
Picket RangePeakA six-mile wall of spires, with 21 peaks above 7,500 ft, among the most remote and difficult mountains in the lower 48.
Boston GlacierGlacierThe largest glacier in the park, spreading across the north face of Boston and Forbidden peaks.
Forbidden PeakPeakA sharp granitic summit famous among climbers for its airy west ridge.
Sahale MountainPeakIts glacier-capped summit rises above the flowery Sahale Arm trail from Cascade Pass.
Cascade PassAreaA historic trans-mountain route used for thousands of years, surrounded by glaciers and meadows.
Mount LoganPeakA massive glaciated peak in the park's southeast, feeding the Fisher Creek and Thunder Creek drainages.
Mount TriumphPeakA steep horned peak rising west of the Skagit corridor.
Thornton LakesLakeA chain of glacier-carved lakes beneath Trappers Peak, reached by a steep trail.
Diablo LakeLakeA turquoise reservoir colored by glacial rock flour, on the edge of the park in Ross Lake National Recreation Area.
StehekinValleyA roadless community at the head of Lake Chelan, reached only by boat, plane, or trail, on the park's southeastern edge.

Geology

The North Cascades are a mosaic of crustal fragments that formed far apart and were later jammed together against the edge of North America. Slivers of ocean floor, volcanic islands, and deep-sea sediment were carried in on moving plates, stacked, and pushed deep into the crust during the Cretaceous and early Tertiary. There, under enormous heat and pressure, they were transformed into schist and gneiss. The Skagit Gneiss, a banded rock streaked with pale granitic veins, is the signature of that deep burial and forms much of the park's crystalline core.

Along the western edge lie rocks of a different history. The Shuksan Greenschist and Darrington Phyllite were once seafloor basalt and mud, metamorphized in a subduction zone and thrust over neighboring terranes; their green-gray faces make up Mount Shuksan. A great north-south break, the Straight Creek Fault, slid the western rocks at least 90 km relative to the core during the Eocene, sharply dividing the range's older metamorphic heart from younger terranes to the west.

Magma later rose into this crumpled crust. The Chilliwack batholith, much of it roughly 26 to 29 million years old, cooled into the pale granitic rock of the northern peaks. Uplift over the last several million years raised the range, and then ice did the carving. During the Pleistocene the Cordilleran Ice Sheet overrode the valleys while alpine glaciers gouged cirques, horns, and U-shaped troughs. Today roughly 312 glaciers remain, still grinding rock into the fine flour that tints Diablo Lake a startling green.

Deep time

Early CretaceousSeafloor basalt and mud are metamorphosed in a subduction zone into the Shuksan Greenschist and Darrington Phyllite.
Late Cretaceous to EoceneAccreted terranes are buried deep in the crust and transformed into the schists and gneisses of the crystalline core.
EoceneRight-lateral movement on the Straight Creek Fault offsets western terranes from the metamorphic core.
About 29 to 26 million years agoGranitic magma of the Chilliwack batholith intrudes the northern part of the range.
PleistoceneThe Cordilleran Ice Sheet and alpine glaciers sculpt horns, arêtes, cirques, and deep U-shaped valleys.
PresentAbout 312 glaciers continue to erode the peaks, though most are shrinking.

The rocks

Skagit GneissMetamorphosed Late Cretaceous to Eocene
Banded high-grade metamorphic rock with light pegmatite veins, forming much of the crystalline core.
Shuksan GreenschistEarly Cretaceous metamorphism
Green, slabby metamorphosed seafloor basalt that builds Mount Shuksan.
Darrington PhylliteEarly Cretaceous metamorphism
Shiny, fine-grained metamorphosed mudstone paired with the Shuksan Greenschist.
Chelan Mountains terraneLate Cretaceous to middle Eocene metamorphism
Includes the Cascade River Schist and Napeequa Schist of the park's crystalline core.
Chilliwack batholithMostly about 29 to 26 million years
A large granitic intrusion straddling the Canadian border in the northern park.
Straight Creek FaultActive mainly in the Eocene
A major right-lateral strike-slip fault with at least 90 km of offset, bounding the crystalline core on the west.

Trees, Plants & Ecosystems

1,189vascular plant species recorded

West-side lowland rainforestAbout 400–3,000 ft
Western redcedar, western hemlock, and Douglas-fir tower over sword ferns and devil's club in the wet valleys of the Skagit and its tributaries.
Montane and subalpine forestAbout 3,000–5,500 ft
Pacific silver fir and mountain hemlock grow where snowpacks are deep, giving way to parkland clumps of subalpine fir near timberline.
Subalpine meadows and heatherAbout 5,000–7,000 ft
Heather, huckleberry, and wildflower meadows flourish in the brief snow-free season, home to marmots and pikas.
Alpine rock and glaciersAbove about 7,000 ft
Glaciers, snowfields, and bare rock with cushion plants and ice-adapted insects.
East-side dry forestLower Stehekin valley
In the rain shadow, ponderosa pine and Douglas-fir forests open onto sunny slopes with balsamroot, and the subalpine larch turns gold at timberline in autumn.

Trees

Western redcedarThuja plicataGiant, fluted old-growth cedars fill wet valley bottoms on the west side.
Western hemlockTsuga heterophyllaThe shade-tolerant climax tree of the moist lowland forest.
Douglas-firPseudotsuga menziesiiGrows on both sides of the crest, tall and straight in the west and more open in the dry east.
Pacific silver firAbies amabilisDominates snowy mid-elevation forests on the wet side.
Mountain hemlockTsuga mertensianaA snow-loving conifer of high west-side slopes.
Subalpine firAbies lasiocarpaA narrow spire-shaped tree marking timberline.
Subalpine larchLarix lyalliiA deciduous conifer of the east-side high country whose needles turn brilliant gold before falling.
Whitebark pinePinus albicaulisA wind-sculpted pine of dry, high ridges east of the crest.
Ponderosa pinePinus ponderosaOrange-barked pines of the sunny lower Stehekin valley.
Alaska yellow-cedarChamaecyparis nootkatensisA slow-growing, long-lived cedar of snowy subalpine slopes.
Black cottonwoodPopulus trichocarpaThe largest broadleaf tree of river floodplains.
Bigleaf mapleAcer macrophyllumMoss-draped maples brighten west-side valley forests in autumn.

Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants

Pink mountain heatherPhyllodoce empetriformisRosy bell-flowered heather carpets subalpine basins.
White mountain heatherCassiope mertensianaA small evergreen with white bells, common near timberline.
PartridgefootLuetkea pectinataA mat-forming plant of late snowbeds with fluffy white flower clusters.
Yellow avalanche lilyErythronium grandiflorumGolden lilies blooming at the edge of melting snow.
Broadleaf lupineLupinus latifoliusBlue-purple spikes in moist meadows and along trails.
Scarlet paintbrushCastilleja miniataBright red bracts in meadows and open forest.
Davidson's penstemonPenstemon davidsoniiA low purple-flowered penstemon of high rocky places.
Cascade blueberryVaccinium deliciosumSweet berries and scarlet fall foliage across subalpine slopes.
Devil's clubOplopanax horridusSpiny, broad-leaved shrub of wet ravines.
Western sword fernPolystichum munitumThe dominant fern of the west-side forest floor.
Western maidenhair fernAdiantum aleuticumDelicate fronds on dripping rock faces near waterfalls.
Fairy slipperCalypso bulbosaA small pink orchid of mossy forest floors in spring.
Arrowleaf balsamrootBalsamorhiza sagittataBig yellow sunflower-like blooms on dry east-side slopes.
Purple saxifrageSaxifraga oppositifoliaA cushion plant of alpine rock that flowers soon after snowmelt.

Wildlife

67mammals
225birds
8reptiles
14amphibians
29fish

Mammals

Mountain goatOreamnos americanusSure-footed climbers of the steepest cliffs and ridges.
Hoary marmotMarmota caligataWhistling sentinels of the subalpine meadows and talus.
American pikaOchotona princepsA small rabbit relative that stores haypiles among the rocks.
American black bearUrsus americanusThe bear most likely to be seen, often feeding on berries.
Grizzly bearUrsus arctosExtremely rare in the North Cascades ecosystem, which is a designated recovery area.
Gray wolfCanis lupusWolves have begun to return to the North Cascades region on their own.
WolverineGulo guloA powerful, wide-ranging weasel of remote snowy country.
FisherPekania pennantiA forest carnivore restored to the Washington Cascades.
Mule deer (black-tailed deer)Odocoileus hemionusCommon in valleys and meadows on both sides of the crest.
CougarPuma concolorA secretive predator ranging through the valleys.
North American river otterLontra canadensisPlayful swimmers of rivers and lakeshores.
Mountain beaverAplodontia rufaA burrowing rodent of moist west-side thickets.
American martenMartes americanaA lithe hunter of the old conifer forest.

Birds

Marbled murreletBrachyramphus marmoratusA threatened seabird that flies inland to nest on the wide mossy limbs of old-growth trees.
Northern spotted owlStrix occidentalisA threatened owl of old-growth forest.
White-tailed ptarmiganLagopus leucuraAn alpine grouse that blends into rock in summer and snow in winter.
Bald eagleHaliaeetus leucocephalusGathers along the Skagit River in winter to feed on spawned-out salmon.
American dipperCinclus mexicanusBobs on stream boulders and forages underwater.
Harlequin duckHistrionicus histrionicusNests along fast, clear rivers.
Clark's nutcrackerNucifraga columbianaA seed-caching corvid of high east-side forests.
Gray-crowned rosy-finchLeucosticte tephrocotisFeeds on insects stranded on glaciers and snowfields.
Sooty grouseDendragapus fuliginosusIts low hooting carries through subalpine forest in spring.
Spruce grouseFalcipennis canadensisA tame grouse of east-side lodgepole and spruce forest.
Varied thrushIxoreus naeviusA haunting whistle in the wet forest.
Swainson's thrushCatharus ustulatusIts upward-spiraling song fills valley forests at dusk.
Black swiftCypseloides nigerNests behind waterfalls in wet cliffs.
Rufous hummingbirdSelasphorus rufusFollows the wildflower bloom into the high country.

Reptiles & amphibians

Coastal tailed frogAscaphus trueiLives in cold, fast-flowing streams.
Cascades frogRana cascadaeA frog of subalpine ponds and wet meadows.
Rough-skinned newtTaricha granulosaA toxic, orange-bellied newt of ponds and forest.
Coastal giant salamanderDicamptodon tenebrosusA large salamander of streams and moist forest.
Western toadAnaxyrus boreasBreeds in shallow lakeshores and ponds.
Northern alligator lizardElgaria coeruleaA cold-tolerant lizard found on both sides of the crest.
Rubber boaCharina bottaeA small, docile burrowing snake.
Western rattlesnakeCrotalus viridisFound only in the warm, dry east-side country near Stehekin.

Fish

Sockeye salmon (kokanee)Oncorhynchus nerkaPresent in both sea-run and landlocked forms in the park complex.
Chinook salmonOncorhynchus tshawytschaSpawns in the Skagit River system.
Coho salmonOncorhynchus kisutchOne of the five Pacific salmon species found in park waters.
Pink salmonOncorhynchus gorbuschaRuns up west-side rivers in odd-numbered years.
Chum salmonOncorhynchus ketaA late-autumn spawner in lower river reaches.
Bull troutSalvelinus confluentusA threatened char of cold rivers and lakes.
Rainbow trout (steelhead)Oncorhynchus mykissNative resident and sea-run forms.
Westslope cutthroat troutOncorhynchus clarkiiA native trout of east-side streams.

Insects & other invertebrates

Ice crawlersGrylloblattaWingless insects living at the edges of glaciers and snowfields.
Mountain parnassianParnassius smintheusA white, red-spotted butterfly of high meadows.
Van Dyke bumble beeBombus vandykeiOne of ten bumble bee species recorded in the park.
Western tiger beetleCicindela oregonaA fast, metallic predator of sandy riverbanks.
Vidler's alpineErebia vidleriA dark butterfly of subalpine meadows with a small range in the Northwest.

Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).

Climate & When to Visit

The North Cascades sit squarely in the path of storms rolling in from the Pacific, and the mountains squeeze those air masses dry as they rise. The result is one of the sharpest climate gradients in North America. West-side valleys and slopes are cool, cloudy, and soaked for much of the year, and high elevations build snowpacks that can reach 10 to 25 feet deep. Across the crest, the east side lies in a rain shadow: summers at Stehekin can climb into the 90s F while the west side stays in the 70s.

The friendliest window is short. Mid-June through late September brings the most settled weather, and snow typically melts off most trails by mid-July. Even then, storms can arrive with several days of rain and wind. Autumn turns the larches gold and the huckleberries red before Pacific storms return in earnest, and the North Cascades Highway over the range generally closes from late fall until spring.

Spring
Waterfalls roar with snowmelt and lowland forests green up, but the high country remains buried and the highway usually opens only in late spring.
Summer
Mid-June to September offers the best weather, with west-side highs mostly in the 70s F and hotter, drier days east of the crest; high trails clear of snow by mid-July.
Autumn
Crisp days, golden subalpine larches, and red huckleberry slopes, with the first heavy storms and snow arriving by October or November.
Winter
Deep snow isolates the interior; the North Cascades Highway typically closes from late November to late April and avalanche danger is high.

Weather hazards

Sudden storms: Carry rain gear and warm layers, since multi-day storms can arrive even in midsummer.
Avalanches: Steep terrain produces avalanches in winter and spring, and snow bridges over creeks can collapse into early summer.
Glacier travel: Crevasses and icefalls require roped travel, training, and rescue gear.
Stream crossings: Snowmelt-swollen rivers are fastest and deepest on warm afternoons.
Summer heat and wildfire smoke: The east side can be hot and dry, and smoke from regional fires sometimes blankets the valleys in late summer.

North Cascades Questions

When is the best time to visit North Cascades National Park?

Mid-July through September is best for hiking, when snow has melted from most trails and the weather is at its most settled. Late September adds golden larches on the east side.

How many glaciers are in North Cascades National Park?

About 312 glaciers have been counted in the park, more than in any other U.S. national park outside Alaska. The Boston Glacier is the largest.

Why is Diablo Lake so green?

Glaciers grind rock into extremely fine particles called rock flour. Carried into the lake by meltwater, the suspended flour scatters sunlight and gives the water its vivid turquoise color.

What is the weather like on each side of the mountains?

The west side is much wetter and cooler, receiving heavy rain and far deeper snow, while the east side sits in a rain shadow with sunnier, hotter summers. Summer highs at Stehekin can reach the 90s F.

Where can I see wildlife?

Look for marmots and pikas in rocky meadows along high trails, mountain goats on cliffs, and black bears in berry patches in late summer. In winter, bald eagles gather along the Skagit River downstream of the park.

Are there grizzly bears in the North Cascades?

Grizzly bears are extremely rare in the North Cascades ecosystem, with very few confirmed sightings in recent decades. Black bears are the bears visitors are likely to encounter.

More parks in the Pacific West

← New River Gorge National Park & Preserve Olympic National Park →

Sources: www.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · www.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · en.wikipedia.org · irmaservices.nps.gov · Official NPS site