National Parks › Alaska › Gates of the Arctic
Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve
Alaska · Established December 2, 1980Roadless peaks, wild rivers and caribou trails above the Arctic Circle
- Area
- 7,523,897 acres
- Established
- December 2, 1980
- Recreation visits
- 14,923 / yr
- State
- Alaska
- Established
- December 2, 1980
- Area (park)
- 7,523,897 acres (30,448 km²)
Gates of the Arctic Weather Forecast
Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (67.760, -153.292). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.
Map of Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve
The Park
Gates of the Arctic is a park without roads, trails, campgrounds or a single paved turnout. It spreads across more than seven and a half million acres of the central Brooks Range, entirely north of the Arctic Circle, and most visitors arrive the way prospectors and naturalists did a century ago: by bush plane, float plane or on foot from the Dalton Highway, carrying everything they need.
The name comes from two peaks, Frigid Crags and Boreal Mountain, that frame the valley of the North Fork of the Koyukuk River like a pair of stone gateposts. Beyond them lies a country of spruce-lined valleys, tussock tundra, glacier-carved passes and braided rivers, where caribou still move in the old patterns and the Nunamiut people of Anaktuvuk Pass continue to live and hunt within the park.
Geography
The park straddles the continental divide of the Brooks Range. Water on the south side drains through the Koyukuk and Kobuk systems toward the Yukon and the Bering Sea, while streams on the north side run out across the North Slope toward the Arctic Ocean. That divide is also a biological line: forests of white and black spruce climb the southern valleys, and the northern flank is almost wholly treeless.
Six rivers that rise in or pass through the park were designated wild and scenic in 1980: the Alatna, John, Kobuk, Noatak, North Fork Koyukuk and Tinayguk. Between them the land rises into jagged ranges of granite and limestone. Mount Igikpak, near the headwaters of the Noatak, is the park's highest summit, and the granite towers of the Arrigetch Peaks stand a short distance to the east above the Alatna valley.
Gates of the Arctic National Park was established on December 2, 1980, and adjoins a national preserve on its southwestern and northeastern edges. It is one of the least visited units in the national park system, with roughly fifteen thousand recreational visits recorded in a recent year.
Landmarks
- Mount IgikpakPeak · 8,276 ftThe park's highest summit, a granite-crowned peak close to the source of the Noatak River.
- Arrigetch PeaksPeakA cluster of sheer granite spires above the Alatna valley whose Inupiaq name is often translated as fingers of an outstretched hand.
- Frigid CragsPeakThe western gatepost of the North Fork Koyukuk valley and one of the two peaks that gave the park its name.
- Boreal MountainPeakThe eastern gatepost facing Frigid Crags across the North Fork of the Koyukuk River.
- Mount DoonerakPeakA dark, steep summit north of the Gates that Bob Marshall admired and never climbed.
- Walker LakeLakeA long, deep glacial lake in the Kobuk headwaters at the southern edge of the park.
- Tinayguk RiverRiverA wild and scenic tributary that joins the North Fork of the Koyukuk in the heart of the park.
- Chandler LakeLakeA lake on the treeless north side of the divide, set among the rolling foothills of the North Slope.
- Anaktuvuk PassValleyA broad pass through the range and home of the Nunamiut village of the same name, a traditional caribou crossing.
- Oolah PassValleyA high pass near the park's eastern edge, in the country reached on foot from the Dalton Highway.
Geology
The Brooks Range is an assembly of rock that was born elsewhere. Large slabs of crust, called terranes, were carried here by plate motion and stacked against one another, and much of the park is underlain by sedimentary rock that settled on ancient sea floors. Some of those layers hold fossils of marine creatures more than 400 million years old, including corals, brachiopods and trilobites.
Mountain building compressed and thrust these rocks northward, and geologists commonly place the birth of the range at roughly 126 million years ago. Along the southern flank lies a belt of schist, sedimentary rock recrystallized under heat and pressure, while the high country around Mount Igikpak and the Arrigetch Peaks is made of granite that cooled slowly from magma deep underground and was later exposed by erosion.
Ice finished the sculpture. During the last Ice Age glaciers covered most of the range, gouging U-shaped valleys, sharpening the granite into horns and knife-edge ridges, and leaving lakes such as Walker Lake in their wake. Today small glaciers survive only in the highest cirques, and the ground across much of the park remains locked in permafrost.
Deep time
- More than 400 million years agoMarine organisms lived and died in shallow seas, becoming the oldest fossils now found in the park's sedimentary rock.
- Paleozoic EraThick layers of sediment accumulated on ancient sea floors, later becoming rocks such as the Endicott Group.
- Roughly 126 million years agoPlate collision thrust and folded the rocks into the ancestral Brooks Range.
- Pleistocene ice agesGlaciers buried most of the range, carving valleys, cirques, horns and lake basins.
- PresentFreeze and thaw work on permafrost ground, while remnant glaciers linger in the highest cirques.
The rocks
- Endicott GroupPaleozoicAncient sedimentary rock formed on the ocean floor that underlies much of the park.
- Brooks Range schist beltPaleozoic and older, metamorphosed during mountain buildingRecrystallized metamorphic rock along the southern flank of the range.
- Arrigetch–Igikpak granitePaleozoicIntrusive granite that cooled from magma underground and now forms the park's highest and most dramatic spires.
Trees, Plants & Ecosystems
- 563vascular plant species recorded
- Boreal forest (taiga)Southern valleys and lower slopesOpen stands of white and black spruce with birch, aspen and balsam poplar follow the rivers south of the divide and thin out toward treeline.
- Shrub tundra and river barsValley floors and gravel barsThickets of willow, alder and dwarf birch line braided channels and provide browse for moose.
- Tussock tundraFoothills, especially north of the divideKnee-high tussocks of cottongrass over permafrost, famously exhausting to hike, with berries, Labrador tea and lichens between them.
- Alpine tundra and fell-fieldHigh ridges and passesWind-scoured rock with cushion plants, mountain-avens and poppies, the summer home of Dall's sheep and marmots.
- Rivers and lakesThroughoutClear, cold waters that freeze for much of the year and carry salmon runs into the southern drainages.
Trees
- White sprucePicea glaucaThe tallest conifer in the park, favoring well-drained river terraces and marking the northern limit of forest in the valleys.
- Black sprucePicea marianaA slow-growing, spindly spruce of cold, wet soils over permafrost.
- Alaska birchBetula neoalaskanaA white-barked birch that mixes with spruce on warmer south-facing slopes.
- Balsam poplarPopulus balsamiferaA fragrant poplar that grows along gravel floodplains and can survive farther north than spruce.
- Quaking aspenPopulus tremuloidesFound in small clonal groves on dry, sunny slopes south of the divide.
- Feltleaf willowSalix alaxensisA willow that can reach small-tree size along rivers, an important winter food for moose.
Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants
- Tussock cottongrassEriophorum vaginatumThe builder of tussock tundra, its white seed heads nodding across the foothills in early summer.
- Dwarf birchBetula nanaA knee-high shrub birch that turns the tundra bronze and red in late August.
- Bog Labrador teaLedum groenlandicumAn aromatic evergreen shrub with rusty-felted leaf undersides.
- LingonberryVaccinium vitis-idaeaA low evergreen shrub whose tart red berries persist under snow into spring.
- Bog blueberryVaccinium uliginosumAbundant on tundra slopes and a major late-summer food for bears and birds.
- CloudberryRubus chamaemorusA single-flowered bog plant whose amber berries are prized in Alaska Native cooking.
- Eightpetal mountain-avensDryas octopetalaA mat-forming alpine plant with creamy flowers that track the sun.
- Moss campionSilene acaulisA tight pink cushion that shelters its own warm microclimate on windswept ridges.
- Arctic lupineLupinus arcticusBlue spikes of bloom on well-drained tundra and river terraces.
- FireweedEpilobium angustifoliumMagenta stalks that flood burned ground and gravel bars with color in July.
- Lapland rosebayRhododendron lapponicumA dwarf rhododendron with purple flowers on limestone slopes.
- White arctic mountain heatherCassiope tetragonaTiny white bells on scaly stems in snowbeds and alpine hollows.
- Woolly lousewortPedicularis lanataOne of the first tundra flowers of spring, wrapped in a fuzzy coat against the cold.
Wildlife
- 38mammals
- 121birds
- 1fish
Mammals
- CaribouRangifer tarandusAnimals from Alaska's great western Arctic herd migrate through the park's passes each spring and autumn.
- Grizzly bearUrsus arctosRoams tundra and valley alike, digging ground squirrels and grazing berries across huge home ranges.
- Black bearUrsus americanusKeeps mainly to the forested valleys south of the divide.
- Gray wolfCanis lupusPacks follow caribou and moose through the valleys.
- Dall's sheepOvis dalliWhite wild sheep of the crags and alpine ridges, rarely far from escape terrain.
- MooseAlces alcesBrowses willow thickets along rivers and lake margins.
- MuskoxOvibos moschatusAn Ice Age survivor occasionally seen on the northern tundra.
- WolverineGulo guloA tireless, solitary scavenger that covers enormous distances across the range.
- Alaska marmotMarmota broweriA marmot found only in Alaska's Brooks Range region, living in colonies among boulder fields.
- Arctic ground squirrelSpermophilus parryiiA deep hibernator whose body temperature drops below freezing in winter.
- Collared lemmingDicrostonyx groenlandicusThe only rodent that turns white in winter, growing enlarged claws for digging in snow.
- Canada lynxLynx canadensisA forest cat whose numbers rise and fall with the snowshoe hare cycle.
- Snowshoe hareLepus americanusChanges from brown to white each autumn and supports much of the boreal food web.
Birds
- GyrfalconFalco rusticolusThe largest falcon in the world, nesting on cliffs and hunting ptarmigan year-round.
- Golden eagleAquila chrysaetosSoars over open ridges and preys on ground squirrels and marmots.
- Willow ptarmiganLagopus lagopusAlaska's state bird, snow-white in winter and mottled brown in summer.
- Rock ptarmiganLagopus mutusOccupies higher, rockier terrain than its willow cousin.
- Northern wheatearOenanthe oenantheA small songbird that nests in alpine rock and winters in Africa, among the longest migrations of any songbird.
- Arctic ternSterna paradisaeaNests on gravel bars and lake shores after a flight from Antarctic waters.
- Long-tailed jaegerStercorarius longicaudusAn elegant, streamer-tailed predator of lemmings on the open tundra.
- Lapland longspurCalcarius lapponicusOne of the most common breeding songbirds of the tundra, singing in flight.
- Snow buntingPlectrophenax nivalisA black-and-white bird of high rocky slopes and early spring.
- American golden-ploverPluvialis dominicaNests on dry tundra and migrates to the grasslands of South America.
- Common redpollCarduelis flammeaA tiny finch that stays through the Arctic winter, feeding on birch and willow seeds.
- Gray jayPerisoreus canadensisA bold resident of the spruce forest that caches food for winter.
- Yellow wagtailMotacilla flavaAn Asian migrant that crosses the Bering Strait to nest in willow shrub tundra.
Fish
- Chinook salmonOncorhynchus tshawytschaThe only fish listed as present on the park's NPSpecies checklist, which remains incomplete for fish; king salmon run into the southern river systems.
Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).
Climate & When to Visit
Gates of the Arctic has an arctic and subarctic climate: very cold, long winters, short and relatively mild summers, little precipitation and frequent wind. The Brooks Range receives far less snow than Alaska's coastal mountains. Weather arrives from several directions at once, and conditions can swing from warm sun to sleet within an afternoon.
The midsummer sun stays above the horizon for weeks, while in December it barely rises. At the Anaktuvuk Pass weather station, about 2,530 ft (770 m) up, average summer highs are near 61°F (16°C) and lows near 37°F (3°C). Valleys south of the divide are warmer in summer and colder in winter than the windy passes.
- SpringLate April through May brings long daylight but deep snow and frozen rivers. Breakup, usually late May or early June, sends high, ice-laden water down the valleys.
- SummerJune to mid-August is the main travel season, with near-constant daylight, wildflowers, mosquitoes and variable weather. Rain showers and brief cold snaps are common, and snow can fall in any month.
- AutumnLate August and early September turn the tundra red and gold as caribou begin moving south. Nights freeze, storms grow more frequent and the first lasting snow often comes in September.
- WinterFrom October to April the land is frozen, dark and profoundly cold, and extreme lows are routine. Only well-equipped expeditions travel then.
- Rapid weather changes
- Carry gear for cold rain, wind and snow in every season, because storms can build within hours.
- Swift, cold rivers
- Rain or snowmelt can make fords impassable overnight, so plan crossings early in the day and be ready to wait.
- Weather-delayed flights
- Low clouds and wind often ground bush planes, so pack extra food for several days.
- Hypothermia
- Wet, windy summer days near freezing are more dangerous than they feel, so stay dry and layered.
- Mosquitoes and biting flies
- Insects peak in late June and July, so headnets and repellent are essential.
Gates of the Arctic Questions
When is the best time to visit Gates of the Arctic?
Most trips happen between mid-June and early September, when rivers are open and daylight is long. July brings the most wildflowers and the most mosquitoes; late August offers fall color, fewer bugs and a chance of seeing migrating caribou.
How do you get into Gates of the Arctic National Park?
There are no roads into the park. Most visitors charter an air taxi from Bettles, Coldfoot or Anaktuvuk Pass, and hikers can also walk in from the Dalton Highway near the park's eastern boundary.
What is the weather like in summer?
Summer is mild but unpredictable, with long daylight, cool nights, frequent showers and occasional snow at any elevation. Average highs at Anaktuvuk Pass are around 61°F (16°C), but a single day can bring sun, wind and sleet.
What wildlife can I see?
Caribou, grizzly bears, moose, Dall's sheep, wolves and wolverines all live here, along with Arctic ground squirrels and marmots. Wildlife is spread thinly across a vast area, so sightings reward patience and time spent in open country.
Why is it called Gates of the Arctic?
In the early 1930s the explorer Bob Marshall described Frigid Crags and Boreal Mountain, which face each other across the North Fork of the Koyukuk River, as gates opening onto the Arctic. The name stuck to the whole park.
What are the Arrigetch Peaks made of?
The Arrigetch Peaks and nearby Mount Igikpak are granite, rock that cooled from magma deep underground. Erosion later exposed it, and Ice Age glaciers carved it into sheer towers and sharp ridges.
More parks in the Alaska
- DenaliAlaska
- Glacier BayAlaska
- KatmaiAlaska
- Kenai FjordsAlaska
- Kobuk ValleyAlaska
- Lake ClarkAlaska
- Wrangell–St. EliasAlaska
← Everglades National Park Gateway Arch National Park →
Sources: www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · irmaservices.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · en.wikipedia.org · en.wikipedia.org · Official NPS site