Kenai Fjords National Park

Alaska · Established December 2, 1980

An Ice Age icefield pouring glaciers into fjords full of whales

Area: 669,650 acres
Established: December 2, 1980
Recreation visits: 425,369 / yr
State: Alaska
Highest point: An unnamed peak in the Kenai Mountains, about 6,450 ft (1,966 m)
Lowest point: Sea level on the Gulf of Alaska

Kenai Fjords Weather Forecast

Loading the National Weather Service forecast for Kenai Fjords…

Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (59.818, -150.107). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.

Map of Kenai Fjords National Park

The Park

On the southeastern edge of Alaska's Kenai Peninsula, the Ice Age has not quite let go. The Harding Icefield, a vast plateau of snow and ice from which only scattered rocky peaks protrude, feeds nearly 40 glaciers that spill down the Kenai Mountains. Some end on land, like the easily reached Exit Glacier near Seward; others flow all the way to the sea and calve great blocks of ice into the fjords.

Those fjords, carved by ice and flooded by the rising ocean, are among the richest marine habitats in Alaska. Humpback whales and orcas feed at their mouths, sea otters float in the kelp, Steller sea lions haul out on rocky islets, and tufted and horned puffins nest on sheer cliffs. Along the glacier-scoured valleys, forests are steadily reclaiming land the ice abandoned only decades ago.

Geography

Kenai Fjords National Park stretches along the Gulf of Alaska coast southwest of Seward. Its interior is dominated by the Harding Icefield, which caps the Kenai Mountains, and its outer edge is a ragged coastline of long fjords and bays, including Aialik Bay, Northwestern Lagoon, McCarty Fjord, and Nuka Bay, separated by steep, forested peninsulas.

Ice covers roughly half the park. Glaciers radiate outward from the icefield in all directions: Exit Glacier descends east toward the Resurrection River valley, Bear Glacier, the park's largest, flows south toward Resurrection Bay's outer coast, and tidewater glaciers such as Aialik, Holgate, and Northwestern reach the sea. Above the ice rise nunataks, isolated rock summits standing like islands.

Only Exit Glacier is reachable by road. The rest of the park is visited by tour boat, kayak, charter, or plane from Seward, and the outer coast is wild and exposed to the full force of Gulf of Alaska storms.

Landmarks

Harding IcefieldGlacierThe vast icefield at the heart of the park, feeding glaciers on every side.
Exit GlacierGlacierThe park's road-accessible glacier, where trail markers track its steady retreat.
Bear Glacier PointCoastA point near the terminus of Bear Glacier, the park's largest glacier, whose lagoon is dotted with icebergs.
Aialik GlacierGlacierA tidewater glacier at the head of Aialik Bay, calving into the sea.
Pedersen GlacierGlacierA glacier in upper Aialik Bay that has retreated to leave a lagoon and wetlands.
Holgate GlacierGlacierAn active tidewater glacier at the head of Holgate Arm, a favorite of boat tours.
Holgate ArmCoastA narrow side fjord of Aialik Bay leading to Holgate Glacier.
Aialik BayCoastA long fjord with tidewater glaciers, beaches, and rich marine wildlife.
Aialik PeninsulaCoastA mountainous peninsula separating Aialik Bay from the outer coast.
Northwestern LagoonCoastA remote fjord ringed by glaciers, including Northwestern Glacier.
McCarty GlacierGlacierA tidewater glacier that has retreated far up McCarty Fjord, leaving a long, ice-carved inlet behind.
North Arm, Nuka BayCoastA remote arm of Nuka Bay on the park's southwestern coast.

Geology

The bedrock of Kenai Fjords was scraped together at the edge of a continent. For tens of millions of years, as the Pacific Plate and its predecessors slid beneath North America, deep-sea sand and mud shed from the land were piled up and plastered against the continental margin. These rocks, mostly the Late Cretaceous Valdez Group with younger rocks of the Orca Group and slivers of the McHugh Complex, form part of the Chugach terrane, an accretionary complex stretching along southern Alaska.

Squeezed, folded, and mildly metamorphosed, the old seafloor sediments became the slate, graywacke, and scattered greenstone and chert of the Kenai Mountains. Granite bodies later intruded parts of the range. Subduction continues today, making this one of the most seismically active coasts on Earth; the 1964 Great Alaska Earthquake lowered the land along parts of the Kenai Peninsula coast.

During the Pleistocene, ice buried nearly all of this country. Glaciers flowing from the mountains carved deep, U-shaped troughs, gouging fjord floors now 600 to 1,000 feet below sea level. As the ice retreated and sea level rose, the ocean flooded these valleys, and the tectonic sinking of the coast helped drown them further, leaving mountain ridges as peninsulas and summits as islands.

The Harding Icefield is a surviving remnant of that Ice Age ice. It is sustained by extraordinary snowfall, averaging about 60 feet a year, as storms from the Gulf of Alaska rise over the mountains. Still, most of its glaciers are thinning and retreating, and the land they uncover records the process of plant succession from bare rock to spruce forest.

Deep time

Late Cretaceous, about 100–66 million years agoDeep-sea sediments of the Valdez Group accumulate and are accreted onto the edge of North America.
Paleocene to EoceneOrca Group sediments are added to the growing accretionary complex, and granite intrudes the rocks.
Last several million yearsContinued subduction uplifts the Kenai Mountains.
Pleistocene Ice AgeIce sheets cover the region and carve deep fjords below sea level.
End of the last glaciationIce retreats, sea level rises, and the ocean floods the glacial troughs.
1964The Great Alaska Earthquake causes subsidence along parts of the Kenai Peninsula coast.
PresentMost Harding Icefield glaciers are thinning and retreating, exposing fresh ground.

The rocks

Valdez GroupLate Cretaceous
Folded slate and graywacke, deep-sea flysch that makes up most of the park's bedrock.
Orca GroupPaleocene to Eocene
Younger accreted marine sediments and volcanic rocks.
McHugh ComplexCretaceous
A chaotic mixture of sheared rocks including greenstone and chert.
Chugach terraneMesozoic to Cenozoic
The regional accretionary complex to which the park's rocks belong.
Harding Icefield and outlet glaciersPleistocene remnant to present
One of the largest icefields in the United States, feeding nearly 40 glaciers.
Moraines and outwashHolocene
Glacial debris and gravel left by retreating ice, as along the Exit Glacier valley.

Trees, Plants & Ecosystems

402vascular plant species recorded

Marine fjords and outer coastBelow sea level
Cold, nutrient-rich waters support whales, sea otters, sea lions, and huge seabird colonies.
Coastal temperate rainforestSea level–about 1,500 ft
Sitka spruce and mountain hemlock with devil's club and blueberry thrive in the heavy rainfall.
Recently deglaciated groundGlacier forefields
A living succession from bare rock through fireweed, willow, and alder to cottonwood and spruce.
Subalpine and alpine meadowsAbout 1,500–3,500 ft
Heather, lupine, and paintbrush meadows where marmots and mountain goats live.
Icefield and nunataksAbove about 3,500 ft
A world of snow and ice, broken only by rocky summits hosting hardy lichens and a few plants.

Trees

Sitka sprucePicea sitchensisThe dominant conifer of the coastal rainforest and late-stage forests near Exit Glacier.
Mountain hemlockTsuga mertensianaA snow-tolerant hemlock of higher coastal slopes.
Black cottonwoodPopulus balsamiferaAn early tree colonizer of glacial outwash along the Exit Glacier valley.
Sitka alderAlnus viridisA nitrogen-fixing shrub that enriches barren glacial ground.
Barclay's willowSalix barclayiOne of the first woody plants to colonize ground left by retreating ice.
Sitka willowSalix sitchensisA streamside willow of the coastal valleys.
Sitka mountain ashSorbus sitchensisA small tree with red berries eaten by birds and bears.

Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants

FireweedChamerion angustifoliumMagenta blooms that color glacial outwash and clearings in midsummer.
Devil's clubOplopanax horridusA spiny, huge-leaved shrub of the wet rainforest understory.
SalmonberryRubus spectabilisPink flowers and orange berries in coastal thickets.
Early blueberryVaccinium ovalifoliumUnderstory shrub whose berries feed bears in late summer.
Alaska bellheatherHarrimanella stellerianaA tiny white-belled heather of snowbed meadows.
Aleutian mountain heathPhyllodoce aleuticaA creamy-flowered heather of alpine slopes along the Harding Icefield Trail.
Alaska paintbrushCastilleja unalaschcensisYellow bracts in subalpine meadows.
Chocolate lilyFritillaria camschatcensisA dark-flowered lily of coastal meadows.
MonkshoodAconitum delphiniifoliumDeep-blue, poisonous flowers in moist meadows.
Cow parsnipHeracleum maximumTall white umbels along trails; its sap can burn skin in sunlight.
Seep monkeyflowerMimulus guttatusYellow flowers along trickling seeps and streams.
Eightpetal mountain-avensDryas octopetalaA mat-forming pioneer of gravel and alpine ridges.
Spotted saxifrageSaxifraga bronchialisDelicate dotted flowers on rocky outcrops and nunataks.
Field horsetailEquisetum arvenseAn ancient plant lineage common on wet, newly exposed ground.

Wildlife

32mammals
145birds
32fish

Mammals

Humpback whaleMegaptera novaeangliaeFeeds in the fjords and outer bays in summer, often seen breaching.
OrcaOrcinus orcaBoth fish-eating residents and mammal-hunting transients travel these waters.
Gray whaleEschrichtius robustusPasses the outer coast on spring migration.
Minke whaleBalaenoptera acutorostrataA small, fast baleen whale occasionally seen from tour boats.
Dall's porpoisePhocoenoides dalliRides bow waves with rooster-tail splashes.
Sea otterEnhydra lutrisFloats on its back in sheltered bays, cracking shellfish.
Steller sea lionEumetopias jubatusCrowds onto rocky haul-outs near the mouths of the fjords.
Harbor sealPhoca vitulinaRests on floating ice near tidewater glaciers, where pups are born.
Mountain goatOreamnos americanusWhite specks on cliffs above the fjords and near Exit Glacier.
Brown bearUrsus arctosForages on beaches and in meadows, especially where salmon run.
American black bearUrsus americanusCommonly seen near Exit Glacier and on coastal slopes.
MooseAlces alcesBrowses willows in the Exit Glacier and Resurrection River valleys.
Hoary marmotMarmota caligataWhistles from boulder fields along the Harding Icefield Trail.
WolverineGulo guloA rare, far-ranging and elusive hunter of the mountains and valleys.

Birds

Tufted puffinFratercula cirrhataNests in burrows on outer-coast islands and cliffs.
Horned puffinFratercula corniculataNests in rock crevices along the coast.
Common murreUria aalgePacks sea cliffs in large, noisy colonies.
Black-legged kittiwakeRissa tridactylaA graceful gull that nests on sheer cliffs.
Pelagic cormorantPhalacrocorax pelagicusNests on narrow cliff ledges.
Pigeon guillemotCepphus columbaBlack with white wing patches and bright red feet.
Marbled murreletBrachyramphus marmoratusA seabird that nests high in old-growth trees.
Kittlitz's murreletBrachyramphus brevirostrisA rare seabird tied to glacial waters and nesting on rocky slopes near ice.
Bald eagleHaliaeetus leucocephalusCommon along the shorelines and fjords.
Harlequin duckHistrionicus histrionicusRides the surf along rocky coasts and nests on rushing streams.
White-tailed ptarmiganLagopus leucuraAn alpine grouse camouflaged among rocks and snow.
American dipperCinclus mexicanusDives into glacial streams to feed.
Varied thrushIxoreus naeviusIts eerie, ringing whistle echoes through the rainforest.
Steller's jayCyanocitta stelleriA crested, dark-blue jay of coastal spruce forest.

Fish

Coho (silver) salmonOncorhynchus kisutchRuns into coastal streams in late summer and fall.
Sockeye (red) salmonOncorhynchus nerkaSpawns in lake-fed coastal systems.
Pink salmonOncorhynchus gorbuschaThe most abundant salmon in many short coastal streams.
Chum salmonOncorhynchus ketaSpawns in coastal streams, feeding bears and eagles.
Chinook (king) salmonOncorhynchus tshawytschaThe largest Pacific salmon, found in park waters.
Rainbow troutOncorhynchus mykissFound in coastal freshwater systems.
Dolly VardenSalvelinus malmaA char of glacial streams and coastal waters.
Whitespotted greenlingHexagrammos stelleriA nearshore marine fish of rocky and kelp habitats.

Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).

Climate & When to Visit

Kenai Fjords has a cool, wet maritime climate moderated by the relatively warm currents of the Gulf of Alaska. Summer daytime temperatures usually range from the mid-40s to the low 70s°F, with frequent overcast skies and rain. Lower elevations receive heavy precipitation, while the Harding Icefield is buried by roughly 60 feet of snow each year as moist storm systems are forced up over the Kenai Mountains.

Weather changes rapidly and is difficult to predict. Gulf storms can bring gale-force winds and high seas to the outer coast, turning tour-boat trips back, while katabatic winds sometimes pour down off the icefield. Winters range from the low 30s°F along the coast to well below zero inland and on the ice, with deep snow and short days.

Spring
Cool and changeable; snow lingers at Exit Glacier into May, and gray whales migrate past the outer coast.
Summer
The main visitor season, with long days, temperatures from the 40s to low 70s°F, frequent rain, and peak seabird and whale activity.
Autumn
Rain and wind increase sharply, and fall storms make boat trips less reliable after mid-September.
Winter
Cold, snowy, and dark; the Exit Glacier road closes to cars and the area is reached by skis, snowshoes, or snowmachine.

Weather hazards

Rough seas: Gulf of Alaska swells and wind can make boat tours uncomfortable or unsafe; take seasickness precautions and heed captains' decisions.
Cold water: Fjord water is frigid year-round, so kayakers need immersion gear and a solid rescue plan.
Calving ice: Tidewater glaciers drop huge blocks of ice that can produce waves, so keep a safe distance by boat or kayak.
Whiteouts on the icefield: Clouds and blowing snow can erase visibility on the Harding Icefield Trail; turn back if the weather closes in.
Bears: Black and brown bears use the Exit Glacier area and coastline; carry bear spray and store food properly.
Hypothermia: Cool rain and wind can chill hikers even in July, so pack waterproof layers.

Kenai Fjords Questions

When is the best time to visit Kenai Fjords National Park?

Late May through mid-September is the main season, when boat tours run and the Exit Glacier road is open. June and July bring the longest days and peak seabird activity, while late summer offers salmon runs and bears.

What is the weather like at Kenai Fjords?

Expect cool, cloudy, and often rainy conditions, with summer temperatures from the mid-40s to low 70s°F. Weather changes quickly, and seas can be rough on the outer coast, so bring waterproof layers and plan flexible boat days.

Can you walk to a glacier in Kenai Fjords?

Yes. Exit Glacier is reached by road from Seward, and short trails lead toward its terminus, with signs marking where the ice stood in past years. The long, steep Harding Icefield Trail climbs from the valley floor to sweeping views over the icefield.

How big is the Harding Icefield?

It is one of the largest icefields in the United States, covering the crest of the Kenai Mountains and feeding nearly 40 glaciers. Together with its glaciers, ice covers about half of the park.

What wildlife can I see on a Kenai Fjords boat tour?

Common sightings include humpback whales, orcas, sea otters, Steller sea lions, harbor seals, Dall's porpoises, puffins, and bald eagles. Mountain goats and bears are sometimes spotted on the shore.

Why are the glaciers retreating?

Most glaciers in the park are losing more ice to melting and calving than they gain from snowfall, largely because of a warming climate. Exit Glacier's retreat is marked along its trail, offering a visible record of change.

More parks in the Alaska

← Katmai National Park & Preserve Kobuk Valley National Park →

Sources: www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · en.wikipedia.org · irmaservices.nps.gov · Official NPS site