National Parks › Alaska › Wrangell–St. Elias

Wrangell–St. Elias National Park & Preserve

Alaska · Established December 2, 1980

Where volcanoes, icefields and colliding terranes build a mountain kingdom

Area: 8,323,146 acres
Established: December 2, 1980
Recreation visits: 108,840 / yr
State: Alaska
Highest point: Mount St. Elias, 18,008 ft (5,489 m)
Lowest point: Sea level, on the Gulf of Alaska coast

Wrangell–St. Elias Weather Forecast

Loading the National Weather Service forecast for Wrangell–St. Elias…

Seven-day outlook at the park's reference point (61.418, -142.603). Elevation changes everything in the mountains — expect colder, windier and wetter conditions on high ground.

Map of Wrangell–St. Elias National Park & Preserve

The Park

Wrangell-St. Elias is the largest unit in the National Park System, a wilderness where four mountain ranges converge and some of the tallest peaks in North America rise above a sea of ice. Glaciers cover about a third of the parklands, from the vast Bagley Icefield to the Malaspina, a piedmont lobe of ice larger than the state of Rhode Island that spills onto the coastal plain.

This is young, restless country. The Wrangell Mountains are a field of great volcanoes, and Mount Wrangell still steams from its summit. To the south, the Yakutat terrane grinds into the continent, heaving the St. Elias Mountains from sea level to 18,008 feet in a few tens of miles. In the valleys between, caribou, Dall's sheep and brown bears roam, and the red mill of Kennecott recalls the copper that once drew a railroad deep into the Chitina Valley.

Geography

Together the park and preserve cover more than 13 million acres of southcentral Alaska, reaching from the Copper River on the west to the Canadian border on the east, and from the Gulf of Alaska coast at Icy Bay north into the Alaska Range. Across the border, the protected landscape continues into Canada's Kluane National Park and beyond.

Four mountain ranges meet here: the volcanic Wrangell Mountains in the center, the Chugach Mountains along the southwest, the towering St. Elias Mountains along the coast, and the Nutzotin and Mentasta Mountains of the eastern Alaska Range to the north. Rivers such as the Copper, Chitina and Nabesna carry silt-laden meltwater from the glaciers.

Only two gravel roads enter the park: the McCarthy Road, which follows an old railroad grade to the Kennicott River near McCarthy and Kennecott, and the Nabesna Road in the north. Most of the park is reached only by bush plane, raft or long wilderness travel.

Landmarks

Mount St. EliasPeak · 18,008 ftThe second-highest peak in both the United States and Canada, rising on the international border above the Gulf of Alaska.
Mount BonaVolcanoA towering, ice-mantled volcanic peak at the eastern end of the Wrangell volcanic field.
Mount ChurchillVolcanoThe source of the White River Ash, whose great eruptions spread tephra across northwestern Canada.
Mount BlackburnVolcano · 16,390 ftThe highest summit of the Wrangell Mountains, an ancient, deeply glaciated volcano.
Mount SanfordVolcano · 16,237 ftA massive volcano whose south face rises in one of the steepest escarpments in North America.
Mount WrangellVolcano · 14,163 ftA broad shield volcano and the only currently active volcano in the Wrangell Mountains, with steam vents on its summit caldera rim.
Mount DrumVolcano · 12,010 ftThe westernmost of the great Wrangell volcanoes, a striking landmark from the Copper River Basin.
Nabesna GlacierGlacierAt more than 53 miles, described by the park as the world's longest interior valley glacier.
Kennicott GlacierGlacierA rubble-covered glacier flowing south from Mount Blackburn past Kennecott; it has thinned substantially since the 1950s.
Root GlacierGlacierAn accessible tributary of the Kennicott Glacier, reached on foot from Kennecott.
Kennecott MinesAreaA national historic landmark mill town that processed high-grade copper ore until the mines closed in 1938.
Bagley IcefieldGlacierA vast, 127-mile-long field of ice feeding glaciers on both sides of the St. Elias Mountains.
Malaspina GlacierGlacierNorth America's largest piedmont glacier, a fan of ice spreading across the coastal plain.
Icy BayCoastA fjord on the Gulf of Alaska where tidewater glaciers have retreated dramatically.
ChisanaAreaA remote former gold-rush settlement in the northeastern park, surrounded by caribou country.

Geology

Wrangell-St. Elias is a collage of crustal fragments. The park contains parts of seven terranes, blocks of rock born elsewhere and carried by plate motion to the edge of North America over the past 200 million years. From north to south they are the Windy, Gravina Belt, Wrangellia, Alexander, Chugach, Prince William, and Yakutat terranes.

Wrangellia gave the park its copper. About 230 million years ago, during the Triassic, enormous outpourings of basalt built the Nikolai Greenstone, and a shallow-water carbonate platform then deposited the Chitistone Limestone on top. Later, fluids leached copper from the greenstone and concentrated it along faults in the overlying limestone, creating some of the highest-grade copper ores ever mined, the lodes that made Kennecott famous.

The Wrangell Mountains are volcanic. Eruptions in this field go back as much as 26 million years, but most of its great peaks were built in the last five million years, when thousands of lava flows piled up over more than 2,000 square miles. Mount Wrangell remains active, and Mount Churchill produced the White River Ash, among the largest eruptions in North America in the past two thousand years.

Along the coast, the Yakutat terrane has moved about 375 miles along the Queen Charlotte-Fairweather fault system over the last 30 million years and is now colliding with the continent, driving the St. Elias Mountains skyward. Heavy snowfall from the Gulf of Alaska feeds the icefields that are carving these peaks even as they rise.

Deep time

About 230 million years agoBasalt flows of the Nikolai Greenstone and the overlying Chitistone Limestone form as part of the Wrangellia terrane.
Past 200 million yearsSeven terranes, including Wrangellia, are accreted piece by piece to the margin of North America.
As long as 26 million years agoVolcanism begins in the Wrangell volcanic field.
Past 30 million yearsThe Yakutat terrane moves roughly 375 miles northward along the Queen Charlotte-Fairweather fault system toward its collision zone.
Past 5 million yearsThousands of lava flows build the great volcanoes of the Wrangell Mountains.
About 1,600 and 1,100 years agoTwo large explosive eruptions of Mount Churchill spread the White River Ash across the Yukon.
1903 to 1938The Kennecott mines extract more than 500,000 metric tons of copper from the ores of the Chitistone Limestone.
November 3, 2002A magnitude 7.9 earthquake on the Denali fault system ruptures north of the park, offsetting the ground by as much as 5 meters.

The rocks

Nikolai GreenstoneTriassic
Thick basalt flows and pillow lavas of Wrangellia that served as the copper source for the Kennecott ores.
Chitistone LimestoneLate Triassic
Platform limestone overlying the greenstone; it hosted Kennecott's rich copper orebodies.
Wrangellia terranePaleozoic to Mesozoic
A far-traveled block of volcanic and sedimentary rock that forms the core of the Wrangell Mountains region.
Wrangell volcanic field lavasMiocene to Holocene
Thousands of lava flows building the Wrangell Mountains' shield and composite volcanoes.
White River AshHolocene
A widespread tephra layer from Mount Churchill, a key time marker across northwestern Canada and Alaska.
Yakutat terraneCenozoic accretion
The block now colliding with North America beneath the St. Elias Mountains and coastal glaciers.

Trees, Plants & Ecosystems

1,120vascular plant species recorded

Coastal temperate forest and forelandsGulf of Alaska coast, Icy Bay and the Malaspina forelands
Sitka spruce, heavy rain and snow, tidewater glaciers, harbor seals and marbled murrelets define the maritime south.
Boreal forestInterior valleys of the Copper, Chitina and Nabesna rivers
White and black spruce, aspen, balsam poplar and birch shelter moose, lynx and snowshoe hares.
Subalpine shrublandAbove treeline on mountain slopes
Willow and alder thickets, lupines and fireweed provide forage for bears, moose and ptarmigan.
Alpine tundraHigh ridges and plateaus below the ice
Dryas, moss campion, heather and lichens carpet windswept ground used by Dall's sheep, caribou, marmots and pikas.
Glaciers and icefieldsHigh Wrangell and St. Elias mountains to the coast
About a third of the parklands lie under ice, from the Bagley Icefield to the Malaspina Glacier.

Trees

White sprucePicea glaucaThe dominant tree of well-drained interior valleys and river terraces.
Black sprucePicea marianaA slender spruce of cold, wet soils and muskeg over permafrost.
Sitka sprucePicea sitchensisThe great conifer of the rainy Gulf of Alaska coast.
Quaking aspenPopulus tremuloidesColonizes warm, dry slopes and old burns in the interior.
Balsam poplarPopulus balsamiferaA fragrant poplar of floodplains and gravel bars.
Black cottonwoodPopulus trichocarpaGrows tall along rivers in the park's southern valleys.
Resin birchBetula neoalaskanaAn interior Alaska birch of mixed boreal stands.
Feltleaf willowSalix alaxensisA tree-sized willow of river bars, prime moose browse.
Mountain alderAlnus viridisForms dense thickets on slopes near treeline and on fresh glacial ground.

Wildflowers, shrubs & other plants

FireweedEpilobium angustifoliumMagenta spires that flood burns, roadsides and old mining sites with color in midsummer.
Dwarf fireweedEpilobium latifoliumA low, large-flowered fireweed of glacial gravel bars.
Arctic lupineLupinus arcticusBlue lupine fields brighten tundra and open slopes in early summer.
Nootka lupineLupinus nootkatensisA coastal lupine of meadows and glacial outwash.
White dryasDryas octopetalaA mat-forming tundra plant with white, eight-petaled flowers.
Yellow dryasDryas drummondiiAn early colonizer of fresh glacial moraines, helping build soil.
Moss campionSilene acaulisDense pink cushions on windswept alpine ridges.
Arctic white heatherCassiope tetragonaTiny white bells on a low evergreen shrub of alpine slopes.
Bog blueberryVaccinium uliginosumLate-summer berries relished by bears, birds and people.
LingonberryVaccinium vitis-idaeaA low evergreen shrub of spruce forests with tart red berries.
Black crowberryEmpetrum nigrumA needle-leaved dwarf shrub of tundra and bogs.
Bog Labrador teaLedum groenlandicumAn aromatic shrub with rusty-felted leaves in black spruce bogs.
Devil's clubOplopanax horridusA spiny, huge-leaved shrub of wet coastal and valley forests.
Tall cottongrassEriophorum angustifoliumWhite cottony heads nod over wet tundra and pond margins.

Wildlife

44mammals
191birds
2amphibians
87fish

Mammals

Brown bearUrsus arctosGrizzlies range from coastal salmon streams to high tundra.
American black bearUrsus americanusCommon in forested valleys, especially near McCarthy and Kennecott.
Dall's sheepOvis dalliWhite wild sheep of the Wrangell and Chugach ranges, among the park's most celebrated animals.
Mountain goatOreamnos americanusClimbs steep coastal and southern mountain faces.
CaribouRangifer tarandusIncludes the Chisana herd, which ranges across the park and into Yukon.
MooseAlces alcesBrowses willows along rivers, ponds and wetlands.
Gray wolfCanis lupusPacks follow caribou, moose and sheep across the vast backcountry.
WolverineGulo guloA rare, far-roaming scavenger and hunter of mountain country.
Canada lynxLynx canadensisIts numbers rise and fall with those of snowshoe hares.
Snowshoe hareLepus americanusTurns white in winter; a key prey species of the boreal forest.
Hoary marmotMarmota caligataWhistles an alarm from alpine boulder fields.
Collared pikaOchotona collarisGathers hay piles among talus slopes for winter.
Arctic ground squirrelSpermophilus parryiiA tundra burrower that hibernates for much of the year.
Harbor sealPhoca vitulinaHauls out on ice floes in Icy Bay and along the coast.

Birds

Bald eagleHaliaeetus leucocephalusGathers along salmon rivers and the coast.
Golden eagleAquila chrysaetosHunts ground squirrels and ptarmigan over the high country.
Trumpeter swanCygnus buccinatorNests on lakes and wetlands in the park's interior basins.
Sandhill craneGrus canadensisMigrating flocks pass overhead with rolling bugle calls in spring and fall.
Common loonGavia immerIts haunting call echoes across interior lakes in summer.
Harlequin duckHistrionicus histrionicusA boldly patterned duck of rushing mountain streams.
Kittlitz's murreletBrachyramphus brevirostrisA small seabird closely tied to glacier-fed coastal waters.
Willow ptarmiganLagopus lagopusAlaska's state bird, common in shrubby subalpine country.
White-tailed ptarmiganLagopus leucuraLives on the highest rocky tundra year-round.
Northern hawk owlSurnia ululaA day-hunting owl that perches atop spruce snags.
Boreal chickadeePoecile hudsonicaA brown-capped chickadee that survives interior winters in spruce forest.
Canada jayPerisoreus canadensisA bold, fluffy gray jay that caches food for winter.
Common ravenCorvus coraxA resourceful resident of every habitat, from the coast to the ice.
Gray-crowned rosy-finchLeucosticte tephrocotisForages on snowfields and glacier edges for wind-blown insects.

Reptiles & amphibians

Wood frogRana sylvaticaSurvives winter partly frozen, thawing to breed in spring ponds; the park has no reptiles.
Boreal toadBufo boreasFound in the park's southern, milder coastal areas; one of only two amphibians recorded.

Fish

Sockeye salmonOncorhynchus nerkaRuns up the Copper River system in huge numbers each summer.
Chinook salmonOncorhynchus tshawytschaThe largest Pacific salmon, spawning in Copper River tributaries.
Coho salmonOncorhynchus kisutchA late-summer and fall run in coastal and interior streams.
Arctic graylingThymallus arcticusA sail-finned fish of clear, cold streams and lakes.
Lake troutSalvelinus namaycushInhabits deep, cold lakes of the interior.
Dolly VardenSalvelinus malmaA char of coastal and mountain streams.
BurbotLota lotaA freshwater cod of deep lakes and large rivers.

Insects & other invertebrates

Spruce bark beetleDendroctonus rufipennisA native beetle whose outbreaks can kill large stands of spruce.
Arctic fritillaryBoloria charicleaA small orange butterfly of tundra and subalpine meadows.
Hecla sulphurColias heclaA high-latitude sulphur butterfly flying over alpine tundra in brief summers.

Species totals are the park's certified NPSpecies checklist (occurrence: present).

Climate & When to Visit

Wrangell-St. Elias spans two very different climates separated by some of the highest coastal mountains on Earth. Along the Gulf of Alaska, a wet maritime climate brings abundant precipitation that falls as enormous snowfalls on the St. Elias Mountains, nourishing the icefields. North of the mountains, in the Copper River Basin and interior valleys, a continental climate prevails, with long, cold winters and short, warm summers.

Interior winter temperatures can plunge to around -50°F, while summer days can reach the 80s°F. McCarthy, in the Chitina Valley, receives about 66 inches of snow in a typical year. Weather in the mountains changes quickly, and low clouds can ground the bush planes that most visitors depend on.

Spring
Lengthening days and lingering snow; rivers stay frozen or run low until breakup, and backcountry travel is often difficult.
Summer
The main visitor season, with long daylight, warm interior days that can reach the 80s°F, mosquitoes, and frequent showers; rivers run high with glacial melt.
Autumn
Brief but brilliant, with golden aspen and birch in late August and September, first snows on the peaks, and rapidly shortening days.
Winter
Long, dark and very cold in the interior, with temperatures that can approach -50°F; the coast stays milder but stormy.

Weather hazards

Glacier travel: Hidden crevasses, moulins and slick ice make glacier hiking dangerous without proper equipment, training or a guide.
River crossings: Glacial rivers are cold, fast and silty; they rise through the day and can sweep hikers off their feet.
Bears: Carry bear spray, make noise, and store food properly, as brown and black bears are common.
Weather delays: Plan extra days, because low ceilings and storms can delay bush flights into and out of the backcountry.
Extreme cold: Winter temperatures in the interior can drop to around -50°F, requiring expedition-grade clothing and planning.

Wrangell–St. Elias Questions

When is the best time to visit Wrangell-St. Elias?

June through early September is the main season, when the McCarthy and Nabesna roads are most passable, flightseeing and guided trips operate, and daylight is long. Late August and September bring fall color and fewer insects, with cooler nights.

How big is Wrangell-St. Elias National Park?

The park and preserve together cover about 13.2 million acres, making it the largest unit of the National Park System. Glaciers cover about 35 percent of the parklands.

Is there an active volcano in the park?

Yes. Mount Wrangell, a broad shield volcano rising to 14,163 feet, is the only currently active volcano in the Wrangell Mountains, with steam vents in craters along its summit caldera. Nearby Mount Churchill produced the far-reaching White River Ash.

What made Kennecott's copper so rich?

Copper was leached from the Triassic Nikolai Greenstone and concentrated in the overlying Chitistone Limestone, creating exceptionally high-grade ore. The mines operated until 1938, and the mill town is now a national historic landmark within the park.

What wildlife can I see in Wrangell-St. Elias?

Dall's sheep, mountain goats, caribou, moose, brown and black bears, and wolves all live here. Visitors near McCarthy and Kennecott often see bears and moose, while flightseeing reveals sheep on high slopes and seals in Icy Bay.

What is the weather like in Wrangell-St. Elias?

The coast is wet and stormy with heavy mountain snowfall, while interior valleys have warm summers and extremely cold winters that can approach -50°F. Weather changes quickly in the mountains, so pack layers and rain gear even in July.

More parks in the Alaska

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Sources: www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · www.nps.gov · en.wikipedia.org · avo.alaska.edu · irmaservices.nps.gov · Official NPS site